Firefly's Dog Blog Spot

Obesity and Malnourishment in dogs: Obese

2008-07-31T17:23:00.002-04:00

OBESITY AND MALNOURSHIMENT IN DOGS:

As owners go, so go their pets - or so it seems. Major studies over the past 20 years have highlighted the fattening of America and resulted in Presidential attention on prevention of obesity through public school gym programs and appointment of athlete-celebrities to make the point. It hasn't had much influence on people, and now dogs are in trouble.
People are less active than they were in the days when most worked at manual labor or exercised by splitting wood, hunting, hiking, or other physical exertion. Television, computers, and spectator sports have replaced action and high-calorie snacks have hastened the decline. Even with the emphasis on low-fat foods, we still eat too much - and feed our pets too much - for the amount of exercise in our daily lives.
Obesity in dogs is a serious medical problem. Fat dogs are more at risk in surgery, more prone to injury, and have more stress on heart, lungs, liver, kidneys, and joints. Excess weight can worsen osteoarthritis, cause respiratory problems in hot weather and during exercise, lead to diabetes mellitis, and generally lessen the quality of life for a family pet.
An owner can control his pet's weight by realizing that food is not a substitute for attention or a cure for guilt and that firmness can and should be applied to the relationship. An owner who cannot resist Fluffy's soft, pleading eyes whenever food enters the vicinity is an owner contributing to Fluffy's obesity and may even be shortening her life. An owner who cannot rouse himself for a few hours each week to make sure that Singer gets enough exercise is an owner contributing to Singer's obesity and may even be shortening his life.
A guide to determine if Pal is malnourished
Purina researcher Dottie La Flamme DVM, PhD, designed a system that helps owners identify potential obesity in their pets. This nine-point grading system defines ideal condition as that in which the dog's ribs are easily felt and the waist and tuck-up (the belly area between ribcage and rear end) are discernible without being prominent. The dog in ideal condition has a thin layer of fat over the ribs.
Overweight dogs have increasing amounts of fat over the ribs and minimal or absent waist and tuck-up. Obese dogs have heavy fat over the ribs, along the spine, and around the tail. Morbidly fat dogs have protruding abdomens and fat deposits throughout their bodies.
Owners can examine their own dogs for a fat layer on the ribs and the visibility of a waist and tuck-up. Breed characteristics should be taken into account of course, as some breeds have more prominent ribs and tuck-ups when in optimum condition. In general, dogs with protruding bones and the appearance of muscle loss are too thin.
Owners can take the situation in hand right now to prevent obesity in their dogs. First, assess the dog's condition. If he appears underweight, take him to the veterinarian for a physical exam to determine the cause and extent of the problem. If he appears overweight, have him checked as well and examine both feeding and exercise programs.
Many dog food manufacturers sell low-calorie diets for dogs that are worth a look, and some companies sell prescription weight-loss diets through veterinary practices. However, caution is the rule when using these rations.
"Dogs and cats do lose weight on these diets if fed the proper amount and if the animal's metabolism can handle the increased grain protein and fiber provided by the diet," said Susan Gayle Wynn DVM in an article titled 'Weight problems in pets - do diet foods work' published on the Alternative Veterinary Medicine website (http://www.altvetmed.org/articles/diet.html). "One common problem that we see is a gradual degeneration of coat quality. Many animals tend to stay overweight and develop dry, flaky skin."
Wynne said that a more dangerous problem can occur when a dog is kept on reduced fat diets for long periods.
"If they eat supplements of meat containing fat or even a maintenance pet food after becoming accustomed to low-fat diets, they may develop a potentially serious disease called pancreatitis," she wrote.
So what's a dog owner to do?
Be aware that obesity is a potential problem if Fido controls the amount of food and snacks he gets by begging or looking sad and get a head start by realizing that an empty bowl is not a clue that Fido needs more food. Dogs are scavengers; an empty bowl is often a trigger for pleading or browsing behavior and does not mean that Fido is starving.
At the very least, cut back a bit on the kibble in the food bowl. If Pal looks stricken and keeps looking for more, toss in some green beans, carrots, or other low-calorie vegetables as long as they do not cause intestinal upset.
Feed appropriate snacks. If you can't resist offering Muffin an evening gnosh, try specialties from natural food bakeries for pets or carrot sticks, unbuttered popcorn, orange or apple slices, pretzels or bits of banana instead of potato chips, pizza, or ice cream. If you split a burger with your pooch on an outing, cut back on his next meal.
Provide some opportunity for prolonged exercise a couple of times a week. Long walks, play sessions, and strenuous training sessions help keep muscles in shape and bodies functioning. Time alone in a yard is not sufficient; although dogs will run fence lines if a person or animal happens by, they are generally as lazy as people and will not run for the sake of exercise. Two dogs, however, will often run, romp, and play together and thus exercise each other.
Watch the fat content in the food you buy. Fats are energy sources; if the energy isn't expended, fats merely add unneeded calories. Fat content of dry food for adult dogs generally ranges between 11-16 percent, with sedentary dogs needing a lower percentage than active or performance dogs.
Check the calorie content of the food you are feeding and look for a diet with similar ingredients but fewer calories. When changing foods, watch for changes in your pet's coat, exercise level, and general condition because dietary changes can influence overall health even while reducing weight if the food is not compatible with the dog.
Watch the supplements you use. Some veterinarians, breeders and trainers recommend adding a tablespoon or two of vegetable oil to the kibble if the dog has a dry coat or skin, but this probably only adds unnecessary calories. It's better for the dog to use a food with sufficient Omega fatty acids or even to supplement with Vitamin E or with a balanced supplement such as Missing Link.
Keep in mind that dry skin and coat or itchiness can be caused by allergies or other diseases that have nothing to do with diet; if the dog scratches a lot and does not have fleas, a visit to the veterinarian is in order.
Unfortunately, some dog breeds (like some people) seem to have a head start on thickening waistlines. These include Labrador Retrievers, Beagles, Basset Hounds, Dachshunds, Cocker Spaniels, and Shetland Sheepdogs. If you own one of these breeds, you can take steps to make sure your pet gets enough exercise to work off his daily ration so he doesn't gain too much weight.
Don't blame weight gain on hormone changes after sterilization surgery. Some spayed bitches and neutered males may gain weight because of a combination of hormone changes, lowering of metabolic rate, lack of exercise, and consumption of too many calories, but the key is "combination of influences," not "sterilized pets get fat."
Keep Pal away from the table at mealtime, separate him from snacking youngsters, and don't let the kids feed him without supervision.
Cautions
While exercise is vital in any program to prevent or dogs from becoming overweight or obese, some caution is necessary. Diving into a vigorous exercise program can tax underused muscles and, stress heart and lungs so start slowly and increase frequency and intensity of activities with care. An exercise program should begin with a visit to the veterinarian to assess general health and to set up an exercise program that will not stress the pet's heart or lungs or cause muscle strain or pain.
Short sessions of low or moderate activity (a walk around the block, a daily obedience routine, a regular obedience class, etc.) are a good way to start. Overweight dogs should be watched closely during exercise to make sure they do not have trouble breathing, especially in hot weather.
Remember, overweight and obesity don't happen overnight and cannot be corrected overnight.

MILKBONE WARNING:

2008-07-16T15:07:00.002-04:00

I want to thank My Little Demon’s mom for sending in this information.

This morning I opened a box of Milkbone- Gravy Bones (for Small & Medium dogs) with an expiration date of 9-17-09 and a Bar code (bottom of box) 79100 94203 and a box (For Large dogs) with expiration date 25 Sep 08 with Bar code 13120 04204 and in the boxes along with the dog cookies was WORMS about the size of rice and the same color. I contacted the company to inform them of this. If you use this product- please check your box by dumping them out on a table before you give any to your dog.

SOURCE HERE

Agility

2008-07-15T17:48:00.001-04:00

Basics of Agility
Dog agility is a sport in which a handler is given a set amount of time in which to direct a dog off-leash through an obstacle course. Originally loosely modeled on equestrian stadium jumpers competitions, the sport has evolved its own additional obstacles, scoring systems and performance ideals. Agility made its debut as an entertainment for spectators at the Crufts Dog Show in 1979; it has since become the most rapidly growing dog sport in England, Western Europe and North America. Spectators continue today to get caught up watching the dog and handler's enthusiasm in their athletic race against the clock.

In the United States, there are several national organizations for agility which sanction tests or trials held by local dog training clubs. Trials which are based on the original international rules and specifications call for the highest level of agility from the dogs both in terms of speed and the physical ability to perform the obstacles. There are also domestic varieties of the sport that call for less actual agility (by using lower jump heights and smaller obstacles) from the dog and focus more on the handling aspects of the game.

There are several obstacles common to all the different organizations:

Aframe
Dog Walk
See-Saw Pipe Tunnel
Collapsed Tunnel
Pause Table Weave Poles
Tire or Hoop Jump
Various Types of Jumps
[pictures of dogs performing these obstacles can be found at the Agility Photo Journal].

The obstacles used in agility have been designed with both safety and spectator appeal in mind. All jumps have easily displaceable bars so that the dog should not experience injury should he misjudge and take down a jump bar. All obstacles that the dog must physically scale have 'contact' zones painted on the equipment; the contact zones enforce safe training techniques since handlers know that dogs will be faulted unless one or more feet are in the contact zones when ascending/descending these contact obstacles. All contact equipment surfaces are roughened for good traction in both dry and wet weather.

In competition, the obstacles are arranged in various course configurations, always unique from trial to trial, that offer levels of challenges appropriate to the class and experience level of the dogs competing. The handler must direct their dog around the course in the sequence that has been predetermined by the judge. At the entry levels of competitions, courses contain few complications and are more of a test to prove the dog can competently perform the equipment within a reasonable amount of time. As the dog and handler earn their way into successively higher levels, the courses increase in complexity and begin to require split second timing and coordination between the handler and dog in order to accomplish the course within the 'Standard Course Time' (SCT) established by the judge.

The rules are fairly simple; handlers may give an unlimited number of commands or signals to their dogs, but may not touch either the equipment or the dog. Dogs are 'faulted' for actions such as taking down a jump bar, failing to put one or more feet in the safety or contact zone when ascending/descending contact equipment, taking obstacles out of sequence, and running past or stopping before the next obstacle to be performed. Time penalties are additionally assessed against dogs that exceed the SCT.

Dogs compete only against dogs of similar height at the withers within a fixed number of jump height divisions. The number of height divisions and the ranges of dog heights assigned to a height division (and therefore the difficulty factor) differ considerably from organization to organization. Regardless of the organization, the dog with the lowest number of faults and the fastest time wins the class or height division.

The largest national organizations are as follows:

United States Dog Agility Association (USDAA)
P.O. Box 850955, Richardson, TX 75085-0995

American Kennel Club (AKC)
5580 Centerview Dr., Suite 200, Raleigh, NC 27606-3390

United Kennel Club (UKC)
100 East Kilgore Rd, Kalamazoo, MI 49001-5598

North American Dog Agility Council, Inc. (NADAC)
HCR 2, Box 277, St. Maries, ID 83861

Agility Association of Canada (AAC)
638 Wonderland Road South, London, ONT N6K 1L8

Solution for the Starved Dog

2008-07-14T17:30:00.001-04:00

"Satin Ball" recipe for dogs who won't eat

This recipe is for dogs who desperately need calories and need to put on weight, but who have no appetite. It sounds yucky, but when these are done they are really appealing, even to me.
In my experience, this is a kind of "last resort and hope" food that many sick dogs will eat.

Mix all ingredients (like meatballs). I shape them like thick hamburgers rather than balls because they store easier in the freezer and thaw faster. Freeze in serving portion size. Nothing is cooked -- all ingredients are uncooked RAW and "Satin Balls" are served raw.

This recipe for Little Dogs (1/10 of full recipe) would be a good test to see if your dog will eat them before you make the substantial investment in ingredients of the half or full size recipe. See Notes below about the Total cereal, oats, wheat germ and vegetable oil.

Satin Balls for Little Dogs -- or to try out recipe on your dog to see if he will eat it.

1 lb cheap hamburger (for high fat %)
1 and 1/3 cups Total cereal
1 and 1/2 cups uncooked oatmeal
1 raw egg
6 Tablespoons wheat germ
1 package Knox unflavored gelatin
2 Tablespoons vegetable oil
2 Tablespoons unsulphered molasses
Pinch of salt

Satin Balls Half Recipe -- recommended amount to mix up

5 lbs cheap hamburger (for high fat %)
1/2 large box Total cereal (about 6 cups cereal)
1/2 large box uncooked oatmeal (about 7.5 cups oats)
5 raw eggs
1/2 of 15oz jar wheat germ (about 2 cups)
5 packages Knox unflavored gelatin
5/8 cup vegetable oil (this is pretty close to 2/3 cup)
5/8 cup unsulphered molasses
pinch of salt

The half recipe, using hamburger that is 20% fat calories, has 12,400 calories. The last batch I made ended up making 22 patties, so each has about 560 calories. I have big dogs (Danes) so if your dog is smaller you might want to make your Satin Balls or patties smaller.

I find that making the half recipe is so much easier that it is worth doing even though you have half-boxes of things around for awhile and have to mix it up twice as often. The disadvantage of the full recipe is the need of a really BIG container and it is very hard work to mix it all up.

Satin Balls Full Recipe

10 lbs cheap hamburger (high fat %)
1 large box Total cereal (about 12 cups cereal)
1 large box uncooked oatmeal (about 15 cups oats)
10 raw eggs
1 15oz jar wheat germ
10 packages Knox unflavored gelatin
1 and 1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 and 1/4 cup unsulphered molasses
pinch of salt

Notes:
"Whole Wheat Total" cereal (blue box) comes in large 1 lb 2 oz size (about 12 cups settled) and a smaller 12 oz size (about 8 cups cereal), which would work in Little Dog or Half Recipe. But in the long run, the large size is more economical. Don't get Raisin Total or Lo Carb Total.

Uncooked Oatmeal like "Quaker Old Fashioned Oats" and less expensive supermarket house brand, come in large 2 lb 10oz size (15 cups oats) or smaller 18 oz size (about 7 cups oats).

15oz jar of wheat germ is about 4 cups. Some stores only carry a 12oz jar of wheat germ, which contains about 3 and 1/4 cups of it.

Vegetable oil -- use a good one. I use grapeseed oil, olive oil would be next best.

Tip: I don’t break the eggs directly into the pot of stuff. The first time I broke the eggs into a separate little bowl for some reason. One of the eggs was bad and it would have ruined the whole pot of stuff. I had never seen an egg like that and had no reason to expect it, but I never break eggs directly into anything anymore.

The Satin Ball patties were what Duke started eating when he wouldn’t eat anything at all after his torsion surgery. He still gets one a day.

It is important to stick to the proportions. I gave the recipe to someone whose dog wouldn’t eat, she told me she made them but he wouldn’t eat them. Then she told me what she did to the recipe, changing it so much that it ended up something entirely different (no wonder her dog wouldn't eat it). You need to follow the recipe carefully if you are going to go to the trouble and expense of making it.

Raw Food for thought? Raw meat for Fido?

2008-07-12T13:32:00.001-04:00

How do I get started?
The first thing you should do is some reading/research on the raw diet.The books are: "Give Your Dog A Bone" and "Grow Your Pup With Bones," by Ian Billinghurst, and "Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats: The Ultimate Diet" by Kymythy Schultze. Both of them go into great detail about the diet and how to get started. If you just want to get started right away, feeding nutritionally complete meals daily, my recommendation would be to go right to Dr. Billinghurst's BARF Diet website here. Here you will find many people's stories about how they feed BARF and what led them to the transition from kibble. Take your time and do your research, and then you will be ready to begin. I lurked on the Main BARF list for about 6 months before I was ready to take the big plunge. I encourage everyone reading these FAQ's to join the Main BARF list now/today, which picks up where these FAQ's leave off.Most dogs do better on a cold turkey switch rather than half-kibble and half-BARF. Remember to keep things simple for the dog when you are starting. You might start with chicken or turkey and feed wings, necks or backs for the first couple of days. Let their body get used to the new foods before you start feeding them a huge variety of foods. Some dogs might not know what to do with the bones at first, but they will get the hang of it. If you have a small dog or a dog that doesn't get the hang of it, you can try crunching the bone into smaller pieces, or holding one edge of the bone for them.For veggie meals, I would start with bland veggies with a bit of lean ground meat. Wait to add the richer foods, such as liver and eggs, for a few weeks. I would also wait to start adding any supplements until you are settled into a routine. These are just some of the basics of the diet. Your research will provide you with more detailed information on how to get started. Good luck and happy barfing. I'm really scared to start, and I feel so overwhelmed...can someone send me some encouragement?
Most of us felt the same way you do when we first started BARFing our pets. We thought it was very complicated (and maybe even more expensive), but have actually found it's much easier than kibble, or maybe that we all feel so good about what we're feeding them now--it just seems so simple now. Many of us believe the fact that BARF is less expensive than kibble too. Yes, it can feel very overwhelming at first, especially when thinking of supplements, how much to feed, meat-to-bone ratios, the veggies, and don't mix this with that, but once we finally relaxed and came to understand that it's a balanced diet OVER TIME, life got much easier.
Is it possible to see some sample meal plans? I really think seeing what I may be feeding will help alot!
Following are 4 sample meal plans (various size dogs) submitted by a BARFer who has been BARFing for 3 years. This is just a guide to help you get started as each dog is different and so is their activity level. What I suggest is to pick a weight closest to your dog's and feed a little more or less accordingly. As the days go on put your hand on your dog's rib cage and see if you press lightly you should feel ribs but not see them. If you can't feel ribs, your dog is too fat and if you can see ribs, your dog is too thin.
I feed 2x/day, so I split these amounts into 2 feedings but I am giving you a full day's worth for the RMB meal.
Golden Retriever - 55# - RMB meal - 1# chicken backs, or 12 chicken necks, or 8 chicken wings, or 2 beef ribs plus an egg or yogurt. You can feed lamb, but it is rich so I don't suggest it in the beginning. Even now after 3 years I will only feed lamb that I trim and only when I will be around to let them out more often. Lamb riblets (I think in Australia they are called lamb flaps) have soft very chewable bones and this is what I use if I can get it. Occasionally (like once every 2 weeks), I substitute fish - either canned mackerel or sardines as my dogs will only eat these. If yours eats other fishes then serve 'em up. I split one large can or 2 small cans among my four dogs
Offal - Offal (or organ meat, e.g. heart, kidney, liver, tripe, etc...) is usually mixed in with the veggie meal, because many dogs do not like the taste (some do). Just be careful not to feed too much, too quickly, as offal is very rich and too much will cause loose stools. Offal can be fed once or twice a week!
Veggie meal - This is for 1 meal not a full day's worth - 1/4 calves liver or an egg and I puree these veggies for about 3/4 cup worth. Mix and match veggies do not try to use all these at the same time - carrots, turnip, parsnip, green beans, yellow squash, zucchini, dark green lettuces, celery - I add a little - very little - of either spinach, kale, turnip greens, or broccoli. Now and then if I have a piece of cauliflower I toss that in too.
To most meals I add 1 teaspoon of oil (cold pressed flaxseed, or safflower or vegetable or olive but usually flaxseed for Omegas). To each meal I add 1 teaspoon nutritional yeast (Vitamin Bs), 1/4 teaspoon kelp, 1/4 teaspoon alfalfa powder. Also I add Vitamin C (about 2000mg) but you need to start off slow and increase a little at a time so as to not upset the tummy. My golden gets 200mg Vitamin E 1x/day
Poodle - 35# - gets exactly half of the above recipe - sometimes he is very active so I give a little more than 1/2 of the above. Halve the vitamins of yeast, kelp, alfalfa and remember Vitamin C 100mg Vitamin E/day
Cocker Spaniel 20# - gets 1/4 of above recipe - he tends to gain weight easily so I take a little away or add a little from his meals constantly - as I said, adjust to each dog's activity level and metabolism. 1/4 the vitamins of yeast, kelp, alfalfa and remember the Vitamin C, Vitamin. E - cocker gets "most" of a 100mg capsule but a few drops goes into the Chihuahua's meal
Chihuahua 8# - very active little guy - 1 1/2 chicken wings, or 4 chicken necks or about 2/3 of 1/2 a chicken back (I break it in half and then take a piece off). For the veggie meal, which is 1 out of 2 meals a day, he gets about 1/4 cup of veggie mix with a little liver (about a square inch) or some egg or a tablespoon plain yogurt. Meat - for 1 meal - a little less than 1/4 cup of beef heart or gizzards. Remember a few drops of the Vitamin E and a little Vitamin C
The easy way is to go by the Golden's meals - And don't be afraid to adjust as needed for YOUR dog. Halve it for a 35# dog, Quarter for 20# dog and about Eighth for 8# dog OR Double it for a large-breed dog.
TIP : Make a calendar - jot in on a ten day basis if feeding 1x/day 7 meals of RMBs, 2 veggie meals and 1 meat/offal meal I also throw in a fish meal now and then. As Dr. Billinghurst says - this is not etched in stone. If you have no RMBs one day - then take a few veggies and an egg or can of fish, puree and serve. Happy Crunching :) Should I switch cold-turkey or is gradual better?
Most dogs do very well being switched over to BARF cold-turkey, but the change over should be done 'easy.' It is recommended that when you are ready to begin, don't try and rush things. Take is slowly. Try to keep the diet bland and simple at first. This is particularly important for older/middle aged dogs. Don't overload your dog with the 'good stuff' - he may not be able to handle it yet - particularly after a lifetime on kibble. Start with just some lean chicken or turkey necks or backs only for the first couple of days, keeping meals small to begin with and don't let your dog overdo it. Once the dog has settled into this, add some bland veggies with a bit of lean mince (ground meat).
The veggies do need to be pulped up using something like a blender, juicer or food processor. You are aiming for something a bit like the vegetable matter found in the stomach of a prey animal. The reason for this is that dogs can not digest cellulose. Cell walls of plants are made of cellulose, so for our dogs to get the nutrients out of them, we need to crush the cell walls. Chopping them up only crushes the cell walls on the outside, leaving the bit in the middle pretty much unavailable to them nutritionally. Cooking them will also destroy the cell walls, but as this also destroys a lot of the nutrients and enzymes in the veggies, it kind of defeats the purpose.
You can start adding richer food like eggs and liver (and maybe leaving a little bit more fat on the chicken/turkey) after a week or two once your dog is used to the simple diet. And after you have got the hang of it for a few weeks, THEN start thinking about adding supplements, if you want to. Don't try to do it all at once. It is also suggested that with dogs new to the BARF diet that you stay away from the harder or fattier bones for at least a few months (and perhaps longer, particularly for older dogs). Give them time to develop some 'strength' in their digestive system first. Please be sure, whenever switching your pet's diet, to add plenty of digestive enzymes and probiotics daily, to ensure smooth transition to the new food. Probiotics should be continued daily, even after transition, to ensure a constant supply of beneficial bacteria in the digestive tract.
I'm still researching BARF, and am not quite ready to make the change. Can you recommend an alternative food that is just as healthy, in the interim?
Proper research can take several weeks or months, depending on your time and desire to feed a more natural & holistic diet. One should never embark on such a drastic diet change without doing the proper and necessary research. The first alternative I'd like to recommend is Dr. Billinghurt's BARF Diet. Dr. Billinghurst's BARF DIET™ is nutritionally sound and nutritionally adequate. This means - in addition to containing those nutrients which “must be present” in processed pet foods, the Dr. Billinghurst's BARF DIET™ diet also contains many other essential nutrients. These are the nutrients found only in whole raw foods. Furthermore, all of these nutrients are present in their biologically available form. In other words, this is a diet that goes well beyond the standards laid down for modern processed pet foods.
Another alternative I'd like to recommend is HealthyPetNet's Life's Abundance, 100% all natural & holistic foods for dogs & cats, made of 100% all natural, human-grade ingredients. HealthyPetNet also carries a full line of all natural pet care products, canine and feline supplements! Other excellent alternatives would be to go with a holistic pre-mix food like Dr. Harvey's, a prepared raw diet like Oma's Pride or even Verve, Force or Embark, which is a dehydrated holistic dog food line. You have a choice... Please be sure, whenever switching your pet's diet, to add plenty of digestive enzymes and probiotics daily, to ensure smooth transition to the new food. Probiotics should be continued daily, even after transition, to ensure a constant supply of beneficial bacteria in the digestive tract. Learn more here.
Can I feed kibble AND BARF?
Yes you can, but seriously, why? OK, I know change can be difficult, so please allow me to explain. Kibble and raw food are digested differently, and should NEVER be fed together, in the same meal. If you feed dry kibble at the same meal as the raw meat, you are increasing the amount of time the food is in the body, and increasing the possibility of illness from microbes. So, if you want to feed half & half, feed kibble one meal, raw the next. Your dog will probably be the one who will let you know, before you do, that BARF is IN and kibble is OUT! :>) But, if you really feel the need to feed kibble (alone or in addition to BARF) or just haven't made up your mind to switch completely to BARF, you may seriously consider a super premium all natural, holistic dog and/or cat food, such as Life's Abundance, which contains all natural and human-grade ingredients, including digestive enzymes/probiotics and grape seed extract (antioxidant)....and NO Corn, No Wheat and No Dairy, formulated by Dr. Jane Bicks, nationally recognized holistic veterinarian. Back to top of page
How much do I feed daily?
Billinghurst recommends 60% RMBs and 40% veggies, etc... however; 60% to 75% CAN BE RMBs and the rest should be a combination of veggies, organs (also known as offal, to include liver, heart, kidney, green tripe, etc...), ground meat (e.g. lean beef, chicken or turkey), eggs and supplements. If you are just starting BARF, remember to start slow by adding new food items every few days or even weeks, until your dog gets used to the new food (especially the richer foods like liver). This is only a guide to help get you started. If your dog is on the skinnier side, up the food (RMBs) and reduce the veggies....if your dog is on the heavier side, reduce the RMBs and up the veggies. To know if your dog is 'just right,' rub the back of your hand.....his/her ribs should feel the same. If you can't feel his/her ribs, then reduce the daily food intake.
Multiply your dogs weight by 16 to get the number of ounces he weighs.Multiply that by .02, which gives you 2 % of his body weight.Multiply that by .6 to give you the weight of RMB you should feed. That is chicken necks, wings, backs etc.Go back to the 2% of his body weight again and multiply that number by .4 to get the weight in ounces of vegetable patty mix you should feed.
For example: One of my Boxers weighs 70 Lbs. Here's the formula I used to calculate the daily food intake when I started:
70Lbs x 16 = 1120 ounces1120 x .02 = 22.4 ounces of food per day22.4 x .6 = 13.44 ounces of RMB -----60% RMB22.4 x .4 = 8.96 ounces of Veg. Patty mix.-----40% Veg. Patty mix.
Remember this is only a place to start - adjust everything up or down, depending on your dogs condition.
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I'm a Vegetarian and do not want to feed meat to my pet. Can I still feed a raw diet?
Absolutely, you can feed your pet a vegetarian diet. But the most important thing you will need to remember, since your pet won't be getting any meat, is to feed high quality protein with the meals, just as you do. The amino acids in meat are essential nutrients, and if you're not feeding meat, your pet will get all the necessary amino acids from tofu, grains and beans. As you learn more about feeding a raw diet, you'll likely bump into many people who are totally against feeding grains. Feeding grains is a personal choice, and does work well for many. It is suggested that the protein be rotated because each and every protein source you choose has a different amino acid chain and concentration. It is also highly recommended to seek out organic grains and beans. Oils are also an essential ingredient in a vegetarian diet, so make sure these get alternated as well, once a week!
Putting together a proper and nutritionally complete vegetarian diet for your pet can be quite as complex as the traditional raw diet. You must do your research before plunging in! An absolutely EXCELLENT alternative, while you're researching and learning, is Dr. Harvey's. The foods come complete with organic grains, vegetables, herbs and some required supplements. All you need to do is add your protein source and essential oils...and you have a nutritionally complete meal for your dog or cat. The food is also an excellent choice for pet owners who want to feed a traditional raw diet with meat or who want the convenience of a home-cooked meal for their pets. Click here for more information.

What exactly is the difference between Raw Meaty Bones & recreational bones? Which should I feed?
RMBs are soft enough for the dog to chew up and eat - things like chicken carcasses/backs/necks/wings, lamb necks, oxtails, turkey necks, etc..., which make up an RMB meal. Recreational bones, on the other hand, are larger bones that the dog will chew on but will not eat the whole bone - things like beef marrow bones, femurs, knuckle bones, etc... Weight-bearing bones can also be given (chicken legs/thighs), but they are a bit more difficult to chew (especially for a small animal). When giving chicken legs/thighs, remember to supplement with eggshell powder or bone dust, to even out the calcium/phosphorus ratio.
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What is the best way to start my older dog on BARF?
It is best with an old dog to keep the diet fairly bland and low fat when changing over. I would suggest adding some probiotics to the diet to help restore good bacteria into the system to fight the bad bacteria and help increase immunity. You can do this by adding yogurt with live cultures in it to the diet or by getting some kind of probiotic supplement. If you are feeding grains, you may wish to either reduce the amount or remove them altogether, until your dog has adjusted to his new way of eating.Remember to start slow, adding a new food item every few days...build up the number of items slowly as you and your dog begin to get the hang of it. Back to top of page
I'm really concerned about salmonella. Am I over-reacting?
When first starting BARF, many people were actually overly compulsive and obsessive with regards to possible salmonella poisoning. In fact, I was one of them. I wore latex gloves when handling the chicken and I never allowed one tiny piece of chicken to touch ANYTHING in my kitchen. I was totally neurotic. After a couple of weeks of BARF, I began to relax a bit. I now use my bare hands when handling and practice proper food handling techniques. Knock on wood, none of my dogs or family members have gotten sick. To this day though, I won't allow ANYONE into my kitchen when I'm wrapping 80 pounds of chicken backs....NOT UNTIL I'M DONE and everything's been wiped down with Thieve's Household Cleaner (yes, it even kills salmonella). :>)
According to an FDA news release, "salmonella is not harmful to dogs". The message? Salmonella is everywhere - not just in raw meats. Employ basic hygiene practices, wash your hands and keep surfaces clean - just as you would when handling your own food. Simple, really! If you want to read more, then you'll find the article on The Question of Bacteria in Processed Pet Foods. Back to top of page
Is my dog experiencing detox?
When switching a dog over from commercial dog food to BARF, the dog's body may begin the process of ridding itself of toxins and impurities as it adjusts to the intake of proper nutrients. This process is called detox. Depending on the overall health of your dog, detox may last one week, one month or even several weeks...or not even at all. The most common symptoms of detox include vomiting, diarrhea, bad breath and itchy skin. It is normal for any of these detox symptoms to get worse before they get better...just don't give up and hang in there. Keep your dog as comfortable as possible during this process. Go slow on introducing new foods, to make sure there are no allergies. Pure pumpkin in the can (not pumpkin pie filling) works magic to firm stools quickly. Provide plenty of fresh water, but limit excessive water intake immediately after meals, as your dog may regurgitate. Give plenty of Vitamin E and C (the C to bowel tolerance) to help boost his/her immune system. Back to top of page
Why is my dog drinking less water daily? Should I be concerned?
No, there is absolutely no reason to be concerned. Raw food is full of naturally occurring water! All the moisture needed to digest raw food is contained in raw food!
Although a lower sodium intake is part of the reason that our BARFing dogs drink less water, the real reason is that raw food has not had the water removed like kibble has. The different between kibble and canned dog food is the water content...they leave the water in the canned and dry out the kibble. It takes a lot of water to re-hydrate those little nuggets!
Back to top of page How does one measure the food when switching from kibble to BARF?
I must admit I prefer the 'cold turkey' approach of switching rather than a slow switch. Try starting with around 2 to 3% of your dogs bodyweight (more for pups - up to about 10% for them) and adjusting from there. It is not an exact science and every dog is different so be prepared to adjust as you go along. Not getting it quite right is not really a problem as long as you accompany this with observation of your dog so you can watch for changes (losing/gaining weight).
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Why do I need to separate certain food items, like RMBs, veggies and grains, and why can't I feed them together?
In Pat Lazarus book, "Keep Your Dog Healthy the Natural Way," under the topic of food combining he states:
"How you combine food groups can be crucial to your dog's health. Why? The digestive organs secret enzymes to break down food so it can be properly used by the body. When carbohydrates and proteins are eaten at the same time, the protein enzymes go to work first, and the digestion of carbohydrates must wait. While the carbohydrates are waiting around to be digested, they ferment and release toxins in the body.
Proper food combining might more aptly be called not combining foods: Give only meat (or other heavy proteins such as eggs or milk) at one meal; give carbohydrates (fruit & grains) for the other meal. Vegetables, though may be given with either grains or heavy proteins."
He goes on to mention this can also help in preventing pancreatitus.
Also, grains and meats should not be fed together but veggies can be feed with either, with no loss of nutrients. Fruits, except apples, should be feed alone and at least twenty minutes before or after anything else. Back to top of page
Is it o.k. to feed grains?
Grains are not a natural food for dogs. It is not something they would eat in the wild. Those grains they would have access to would be in small quantities eaten from the stomachs of prey animals who had (in the right season) eaten some grasses that had seeded. These grains would also not look like our modern grains - more like wild rice (check it out at the supermarket and compare to domestic types).
Grains are also full of carbohydrates which can be easily converted to sugars. Cancer cells feed on sugars and it is believed that by decreasing the amount of carbohydrate in the diet, we may greatly reduce the risk of cancer (which is a growing problem among modern dogs).
So, in answer to your question, yes, grains can be fed; however, please keep the following in mind (when feeding grains), taken directly from a Dr. Billinghurst seminar: grains are not a natural food for dogs; dogs do not, in fact, need carbohydrates; carbohydrates are easily converted into sugars which feed cancer. Remove the carbs and the cancer has less/nothing to feed on; and grains are one of the major causes of allergies in dogs, and can also cause flatulence (gas..PHEW!!!)!.
I would suggest you read more on grains at the Grain Free Pets website. The page now includes a basic description of yeast infections, why they occur, what are the diet recommendations, why didn't my vet diagnose this problem.... as well as links on candida. Back to top of page
Do I really need to use supplements?
I haven't cut supplements out totally, although IMO a lot of people tend to over-supplement. This was something Billinghurst suggested too at a recent seminar here, and he mentioned that he only supplements his own dogs every now and again.I think if you are providing a good varied diet you will be providing pretty much what your dog needs - all in a highly bio-available form. My first preference when looking to a certain vitamin/mineral will always be to provide it in its natural form first. So if I feel I need to provide more Vitamin B for example, I would consider what foods contain that vitamin first (e.g. liver) rather than reaching for an artificial supplement.That said, I certainly see a benefit in supplementing those things that our dogs may be missing in the translation from a 'wild' diet to its 'modern' equivalent (i.e. BARF). As we don't necessarily feed the whole animal for example (eyes, brains, stomach and intestines etc etc as well) the addition of things like EFA's (e.g. , fish oil, flaxseed oil) on occasion can be useful. I would include yogurt in this category too - it contains good bacteria which a dog may otherwise have got from eating stomach contents/intestines etc (but green tripe can help here too). I like to add a bit of Kelp every now and again for its trace elements. Modern soils have been depleted by over-cropping etc and Australian soils in particular are low in iodine. Kelp adds back these trace elements into the diet.I add Vitamins C and E every now and then for their antioxidant properties and their value to optimize health - particularly in our modern polluted environment. Vitamin C is particularly good in times of stress and I am more likely to include it then than at other times.Now realize that while I do include these supplements, I do not include them every day. I don't believe they are necessary every day except some in certain circumstances and perhaps only for short periods. Of course every dogs and every situation will be different (if I lived in a city I might give more C and E for example to combat higher pollution). But remember you are providing a much more nutritious product to begin with with raw natural foods. They are probably getting more nutritional value now out of a varied BARF diet without the supplements that they ever did on kibble.
If you do use herbs and vitamins on a regular basis (whether it be for you or your pet), may I suggest you checkout My Herbal Corner, where you'll find the highest quality herbal, vitamin, mineral and nutritional supplements worldwide! If you're only interested in herbs for pets, please click here.
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How do I know what supplement is for what, should I decide to supplement?
B and C vitamins are water soluable, which means whatever the body does not use are eliminated in the urine. You basically cannot "overdo" the vitamins except too much can cause loose bowels (that's why you often see it recommended to supplement with Vitamin C "to bowel tolerance"). Vitamins A, D, E and K are fat soluable and it IS possible to cause problems by over-supplementing - sometimes the problems can be as bad if not worse than UNDER supplementation. According to Kymythy Schultze in her book, "The Ultimate Diet", she states:
"Alfalfa contains vitamins A, B1, B6, B12, C, D, E, K AND U, plus beta-carotene, niacin, pantothenic acid, biotin, folic acid, calcium, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, iron, zinc, copper, protein, amino acids, trace elements and fiber. It reduces tissue damage from radiotherapy, helps bleeding disorders, has antibacterial action against salmonella and has a protein with known anti-tumor activity. It's used as a general tonic, to detoxify the body and to treat colon disorders, hemorrhages, diabetes, ulcers and arthritis. Use the alfalfa leaf and stem in powdered or liquid form. Do not use alfalfa seeds as they contain a natural toxin.
Kelp contains vitamins A, B1, B3, B5, B6, B9, B12, C and E, plus zinc, viotin, bromine, calcium, choline, copper, inositol, iodine, PABA, potassium, selenium, sodium and sulfur. Its iodine content is very good for glands and organs, especially the thyroid and liver. It can bind with chemical pollutants in the gastrointestinal tract and prevent their absorption by the body. It increases the contractile force of the heart, improves circulation and is often used for hair loss, goiter, ulcers, obesity and mineral deficiency. Equal parts of alfalfa and kelp in your dog's or cat's food provides a vast array of health-enhancing nutrients as a complete vitamin and mineral supplement.
Other green foods you may use include algae (chlorella, spirulina, blue-green), aloe vera, grasses and sea greens. Since these are plants, they should be fed to carnivores in fairly small amounts, proportionately"
Raw meat, fish and eggs provide an array of amino acids/protein, enzymes, antioxidants, Vitamins A, C, D, E, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B12, biotin, choline, folic acid, inositol, iodine, pantothenic acid, paba, fatty acids, caldium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, potassium, chromium, copper, manganese, selenium, sodium, sulfur, vanadium, zinc and CoQ10 (see pg 26 of "The Ultimate Diet").
Raw veggies provide enzymes, antioxidants, betacarotene, carbohydrates, fiber, phytochemicals, Vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, C, D, E, K, boron, choline, folic acid, inositol, iodine, paba, pantothenic acid, calcium, chromium, copper, iron, iodine, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, phosphorus, potassium, silicon, sodium, sulfur and selenium.
Many of us are of the opinion that our dogs, who are healthy, get the vitamins they need from the varied diet they are fed. Many BARFers supplement and many do not. Again, the choice is yours. Back to top of page
What is ACV and what are some of it's benefits?
ACV stands for Apple Cider Vinegar. Of the 22 minerals essential for health, apple cider vinegar contains 19 in exactly the right amounts. *Some* of these minerals are potassium, phosphorus, sodium, magnesium, sulphur, iron, copper, silicon and pectin. ACV also contains natural malic and tartaric acids which are important in fighting body toxins and inhibiting unfriendly bacteria. There are claims that the additional acidity of ACV helps the digestion process. Many dogs like the taste of it, and it even makes the RMBs smell less raw meaty-like. Many people soak the RMBs in ACV prior to feeding, to aide with the digestion of bones. Remember in chemistry class, soaking a raw bone in vinegar? It turned rubbery! hummmm..some food for thought for those of you afraid of splintering bones. Again, the option to use ACV is purely another personal choice...some do and some don't. Oh, a teaspoon of ACV (daily) in your dog's food also removes tear stains (for those with very light-colored dogs). Results are usually begun to be seen in 7 to 10 days. Read more about the wonders of Apple Cider Vinegar here. Back to top of page
What is Ester C and bowel tolerance?
Ester C is a buffered form of Vitamin C, which is easier on the stomach than other C's (ascorbic acid). If you decide to use Ester C or any of the other buffered form of C (calcium ascorbate or sodium ascorbate), you will be able to provide a much higher dosage than you would with ascorbic acid. If you are providing a buffered form of C, you might want to start out with 500 mg and increase the dosage (splitting the dosage to twice per day) until you determine the bowel tolerance. From that point, you can then determine how much C you want to offer per day.
As you are upping the daily dosage of C and you notice that your dog's stools are becoming a bit loose, then you have reached Bowel Tolerance. Any higher dosage will cause loose/watery stools, and even diarrhea.
Vitamin C is an immune booster and can be given daily. You can also UP the amount of Vitamin C during times of stress.
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What are digestive enzymes and probiotics, and why is their use recommended?
Digestive enzymes break down food so that it can be absorbed and utilized by the body. Raw food has enzymatic activity, and the body has a limited supply also. When our pets eat the raw food that their physiology is designed to thrive on, they receive plenty of food enzymes, which aid digestion and nutrient utilization. When they eat cooked food, which is devoid of enzymes, they can deplete the body's supply, and the enzyme-producing organs must work overtime to compensate. It doesn't matter what you put into the body if digestion is not equipped with enough enzymes to break it down and put it to good use within the body. Supplemental enzymes can be beneficial in cases of digestive disorders and degenerative diseases. They replenish the body with the tools needed to utilize nutrients.Probiotics are beneficial bacteria. They are normally present in a healthy intestinal system. Beneficial bacteria keep unwanted bacteria, fungi, and other bad guys from disrupting homeostasis. For example, U.S.A. labs have conducted studies showing non-dairy probiotics to be extremely successful at destroying e.coli bacteria. Beneficial bacteria is killed by antibiotics. Supplemental use of non-dairy probiotics can help re-establish normal intestinal function (lots of yogurt).Both enzymes and probiotics can be purchased from a variety of sources including health food stores, vitamin shops, catalog, etc. Look for products with a large amount of active ingredient and no fillers, binders, yeast, dairy, sugar, etc. Use according to directions. Enzymes are most often sprinkled on food right before feeding. Probiotics, which should be refrigerated, are most effective if given between meals. More information on digestive enzymes can be found here. I highly recommend Natur's Way MSE Probiotics, the #1 Digestive Enzyme and Probiotic on the market today. Learn all about probiotics and digestive enzymes here, and why they're so important to give daily. Back to top of page
What are other natural sources of calcium, other than egg shells and the bones themselves, to supplement?
Personally I would stick with the eggshells, but I have heard people talking to their butcher/meat market and asking them to save bone "sawdust" from when they cut the meats down. This bone dust would be preferable to bonemeal because it would still be in its "raw" state. Eggshell powder can be made yourself, by saving the raw shells, drying and then running them through a coffee grinder. According to Pitcairn, there is 1,800 mgs. of calcium per teaspoon of eggshell powder. Bone Dust contains 8.74 % ash, (1/3 of which is calcium), 25.26 % fat, 13.42 % protein, and 52 % is water. Back to top of page
Fish? You mean I can really toss my dog a whole fish?
Absolutely...head, tail, body...the whole thing! Just be sure to check inside the fish for any hook that may have been forgotten to be removed. Fish is not a substitute for an RMB meal, but it can be fed a couple of times a week. One reason for this is the thiaminase enzyme in fish...it destroys thimaine (Vitamin B1). Fish especially rich in thiaminase are herring, capelin, suckers, smelts and various carp species, a total of some 50 species, most of which live in fresh water. Extra thiamin can be fed when feeding fish. Feeding whole fish is also an individual's personal choice. Many are afraid of the bones getting stuck...no problem, there are many varieties of nutritious canned fish on the market.
A special note with regards to those who live in the Pacific Northwest: salmon and trout can carry the rickettsia organism responsible for salmon poisoning. If your dog shows ANY signs of being ill within two weeks of feeding, get him/her to the vet, and tell them to look for salmon poisoning. This information is not meant to scare anyone, but it's extremely risky to feed raw salmon and trout from the Pacific Northwest.. Back to top of page When should I start introducing veggies?
They are probably the second thing I would introduce after some Raw Meaty Bones such as chicken (Oh, I may add some yogurt or probiotics first though). When to add them usually depends on your dog. If he handles the chicken RMBs well for a few days, you can try adding some bland veggie mix (with perhaps some lean ground meat to tempt). You can add it sooner if the dog is getting a little constipated, or later if things are still a bit soft and runny ;-). Either way, try and keep the diet fairly bland and low fat for a while when starting out. Back to top of page
What is the recipe for Dr. Billinghurst's veggie patties? Can I change this recipe?
Yes, this recipe can be adjusted to suit your dog's needs or tastes, at the time. It is based on raw crushed vegetables - at least half e.g. one kilo vegetables such as carrots, celery, spinach, broccoli, etc. The other half consists of lean mince - beef, chicken, lamb {pork} e.g. one kilo. To which we add such things as: yogurt - low fat and plain - half a small tub eggs - raw preferably free range - about 3 flax seed oil - 2 or three dessertspoons liver - raw - say a quarter of a lamb's fry garlic - 2 or 3 cloves kelp powder - up to 4 teaspoons B vitamins - a teaspoon of Troy Vitamin B PLUS OTHER HEALTHY FOOD SCRAPS e.g. small amounts of cooked veggies, rice, cottage cheese etc. Any surplus - not fed on the day - should be formed into patties, frozen, thawed out as required. copyright IAN BILLINGHURST Back to top of page
Help, my dog won't eat his veggies!
I went through the same routine with my Dobe when I fed kibble and again when I fed Barf. Finally, what came about was our "Giant Veggie Battle". I finally decided that I had enough pampering, I knew he liked the veggies because at one point he used to gobble them up, but he was being stubborn. He would rather have RMBs.So for 3 days he got veggie meals...for 3 days he refused to eat. He would eat a bite or two, sometimes 3 if I was lucky and walk away. Every meal, I would give him a fresh meal with maybe 2 tbsp. of veggie mix and the rest ground beef/mackerel/salmon, etc. I would leave it down for 10 minutes and then calmly pick it up. Well at 3 1/2 days, the boy finally ate his whole veggie meal. Apparently, he was hungry enough. Never again did we have the problem.This might be worth looking into in your case. As long as you know the dog is healthy and has no reason other than "stubbornness" not to eat a particular meal, this is an option for you. Yes, it can be stressful and frustrating, however, in the long run you have very few "battles" after that and happier mealtimes.Here are some suggestions that were given to me to try to tempt him in his veggie meals:Mix veggies with canned fish (mackerel, tuna, sardines) or ground meatParmesan cheese on topGrated Cheese in the mix1 - 2 tsp. of molassesGarlic powder or regular garlicraw eggbaked beansyogurt or cottage cheesechopped raw liver or kidneyvegemite mixed with warm water (probably not relevant for the USA lol)
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Why can't I just chop up a veggie, or even give it whole?
The veggies need to be pulped up using something like a blender, juicer or food processor. You are aiming for something a bit like the vegetable matter found in the stomach of a prey animal. The reason for this is that dogs can not digest cellulose. Cell walls of plants are made of cellulose, so for our dogs to get the nutrients out of them, we need to crush the cell walls. Chopping them up only crushes the cell walls on the outside, leaving the bit in the middle pretty much unavailable to them nutritionally. Cooking them will also destroy the cell walls, but as this also destroys a lot of the nutrients and enzymes in the veggies (even canned veggies), it kind of defeats the purpose. Freezing the veggies and then thawing can also break down the cell walls. Back to top of page
Is it ok to mix the veggie mush with ground meat?
Yes, you can mix the ground meat in with the veggies :-). If this is purely muscle meat and not ground Raw Meaty Bones, it is best to limit the amount you are feeding though. Remember that 60 to 80% of the diet should be raw meaty bones. Of the remainder, less that 1/2 should usually be additional muscle meat without the bones. If you can try and make sure there is at least the same amount if not more veggies and other stuff than the ground muscle meat in your veggie mix.Of course if you are just introducing the veggies and that is the only way they will eat them, mixing a small amount of veggies in a larger amount of meat will sometimes help. You can gradually decrease the amount of meat and increase the veggies as they get used to it. Back to top of page
My supermarket frequently has chicken leg quarters on sale. Are these o.k. to use?
Yes - but they don't contain the proper calcium:meat ratio; plus they are load-bearing bones and are naturally harder (and harder on your dog's teeth over the long haul). If you DO decide to use them, you will need to supplement with additional calcium (in the form of eggshells or bonemeal). Back to top of page
My dog literally inhales her food, and it scares me to near death. What can I do to get her to slow down?
Many dogs have a tendency to gulp their food, without chewing, and this can be a very scary experience for an owner new to feeding raw bones. To teach the dog to chew before swallowing (yes, your dog needs to learn how to chew), try larger RMBs like chicken backs and turkey necks. Avoid all the smaller RMBs (chicken wings, chicken necks, etc...) until your dog learns to chew her food. Another option (submitted by a BARFer) is, "instead of giving her bigger things to chew on, I hand fed my dog, and made him pull the meat off the bone. I did this for about a week, and afterwards everything was fine. For people who have bigger dogs, and are afraid of getting their hand chopped off, they should teach their dog to respect their hand, and the meat that's in it." Back to top of page
I thought RMBs were supposed to be given whole...why are some people grinding them for their dogs?
Yes, RMBs should be given whole (not ground up or smashed), as chewing the entire RMB provides several benefits. Chewing RMBs provides superior jaw and upper body muscle exercise, as well as those pearly whites we've read so much about. Puppies who chew their RMBs satisfy their natural chewing desires, rather than chewing on your furniture or shoes. On the other hand, ground RMBs still provide all the nutritional requirements that are so crucial to your dog's health. There are people who choose to grind (or even smash up the RMB) for various reasons, examples are: feeding an older dog with few teeth left, the dog is a chronic 'gulper,' OR just for an owner's peace of mind that their dog won't choke on the bones (until they feel more comfortable feeding raw meaty bones). To grind or not to grind is purely an owner's personal choice. Unless there is an underlying medical condition, RMBs should be fed whole. An excellent alternative would be to go with a prepared raw diet like Oma's Pride. Back to top of page
I've heard so much about the Maverick Meat Grinder, where can I buy one?
You can purchase the Maverick Grinder directly at Pierce Food Service Equipment, Inc. This site does not endorse this grinder, but does endorse the grinder from Northern Tools (photo to the left). This comes from my personal research, comparison of many grinders and the actual use of this product. When you get to Northern Tools, simply type in the product # 168620 (numbers only) at the top of the page in the search box, and you'll be taken directly to the recommended grinder.
Again, it is purely a personal choice to grind or not to grind. Please use your utmost discretion before purchasing ANY grinder, or ANY product, for that matter. Back to top of page
How do I go about finding a Raw Meaty Bone supplier?
The best place to find a supplier for your raw meaty bones is in your phone book. Look up Butchers and Wholesale Poultry Distributors in the Yellow Pages. You can also search the International Purveyor Index using your zip code to find a supplier near you. Back to top of page
How much can I expect to pay for RMBs?
On the average, staple RMBs (chicken wings, chicken backs and turkey necks) can be purchased from a wholesale supplier in 40-pound cases for about .89 cents a pound, .29 cents a pound and .39 cents a pound, respectively (in US Dollars). Prices vary by state and supplier, and these are just average prices. These staples, and other RMBs, can also be purchased in your local supermarket(s), at a bit higher price per pound. If you are BARFing more than one dog, it will certainly 'pay' for you to shop around for the best prices and even invest in a chest or upright freezer. Back to top of page
I've heard about trichinosis and pork. Is it safe to feed pork?
As with many other food items, feeding pork is purely a personal choice. But yes, it CAN be fed, safely. Some dogs do very well on pork and others don't (loose stools). If you'd like to feed pork but are afraid of possible trichinosis, it is recommended that the pork be frozen, at Zero degrees F for 3 weeks, to kill the flukes. The incidence of trichinosis is actually fairly minimal in most places now (particularly in inspected meats). Many have fed fresh pork (pork necks, being a favorite) without any ill side-effects. Be aware of smoked pork necks, as they are slightly cooked from the smoking process. Pigs feet can also be fed, but are very high in fat...something you may want to avoid if your dog needs to lose a pound or two.
What is the bone to meat ratio?
Ideally, it is anywhere from 1:1 to 2:1 calcium:phosphorus (bone/eggshell:meat). The ratio for various food items can be researched, what other nutrients do RMBs provide?
Raw meaty bones provide nutritious marrow, amino acids/protein, essential fatty acids, fiber, enzymes, antioxidants and a vast array of species-appropriate minerals and vitamins all in a usable form. Back to top of page
I've noticed my dog pooping less and it's white. Is this normal?
Yes, this is completely normal for a BARFing dog. The reason your dog is pooping less is because most of the food he is now ingesting, is being digested and properly utilized by the body...thus, less waste. The RMBs account for it turning white. If you notice your dog straining while pooping, you can up the veggies a bit; however, straining a little bit can help express the anal glands, which would normally be done by your vet, at a price!
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My dog is constipated. How can I help him?
Pure pumpkin in the can (not pumpkin pie filling) helps both loose stools and constipation. You can also reduce the RMBs and up the veggies a bit, or even add liver to the meal. Back to top of page
Help!!! My dog has diarrhea!!!
If you're just starting to BARF your dog, the diarrhea may be brought on because of the normal detox process (cleansing out the toxins and impurities) OR because you may have added one too many things too quickly. Pure pumpkin, in the can (not pumpkin pie filling), will immediately halt the diarrhea. If the diarrhea is because of the possibility of a reaction to a new food item, you'll need to start an elimination diet. Basically, go right back to feeding one thing only for a time (no supplements or anything else, including treats) and then gradually add things back one at a time and watch for a reaction. As every dog is different, this is the only way you will know for sure what your particular dog is reacting to. In the meantime, keep his food bland until he is feeling better (you too)! You can add applesauce, honey and even Slippery Elm Powder (an herb) to help settle his tummy.
If you feel detox or a new food item may not be the cause of the diarrhea, do not hesitate to drop off a stool sample to your veterinarian to check for parasites, worms and even unfriendly bacteria. If your dog is put on antibiotics for his/her gastrointestinal upset, make sure you give him plenty of probiotics, yogurt, Vitamin C & E, during the recovery process.
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Why is my dog's stool wrapped in mucous at times? Should I be concerned?
Believe it or not, mucousy stools can appear any time, no matter how long one has been BARFing, and is generally no reason for concern. When first starting BARF, this may be a sign that the digestion track is ridding the junk out of it's system (normal part of detox). Mucousy stools can also be related to feeding dairy products. If you are feeding dairy, try cutting them out for a few days and see if this was the culprit. It can also mean an inflammation of the intestinal track. If you notice traces of blood, along with the mucousy stool, a trip to the vet is encouraged. Mucousy stools are also a sign of coccidia (a parasite commonly found in puppies), so you might want to drop off a fecal sample to your vet, and begin treatment. Again, use your judgment...if dog appears ill (gums may be white and not the normal pink/rose color) and is also having frequent bouts of diarrhea that last 24 to 48 hours, call your vet.
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My dog is vomiting. What can I do?
There are several reasons a dog may vomit, and it is up to you to determine why. If the vomit is yellow bile, this means the dog's stomach is completely empty (and hungry!). Feed that poor baby. If the vomit is clear with white foam or mucusy globs, it is from drinking too much too fast (possibly on an empty stomach). I'd remove the water and, again, feed that baby!
Vomiting is also a symptom of the normal detox process. You can add applesauce, honey and even Slippery Elm Powder (an herb) to help settle his tummy, while he is getting accustomed to his new way of eating. The vomiting may also be the result of a new food item that does not agree with him. And yes, a dog new to BARF will occasionally regurgitate his food, and then begin to eat it again...probably more slowly this time, as he 'gulped' it the first time. This IS normal.
Sometimes pieces of bones stay undigested (may have been stuck in the stomach for a while) and cause a bit of blockage, which can cause quite a noxious odor on both ends. Increasing probiotics/digestive enzymes may be a good suggestion.
Dogs can also ingest various foreign objects (e.g. socks, toys, plants, etc...), so keep an eye on your pet if you suspect this type of ingestion, and your dog hasn't thrown up or passed out the foreign object within 24 to 48 hours.
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I'm confused, do I have to fast my dog on occasion?
No, you do not have to fast your dog. In nature, canines (wolves, feral dogs, etc.) don't eat everyday. The theory behind fasting our dogs is that it gives their digestive systems a chance to rest. Most people who fast their dogs do it once a week. Many people give recreational bones or liquid meals on fast days to help their dog get through the fast day. The choice to fast is a personal decision. Many, many BARFers fast usually on days that would be stressful like traveling, vet days, and so on. Many dogs will fast themselves and we must listen to them.
Now, if your dog pooped numerous times after fasting, this is good as he/she must have had some build up to get rid of and with the daily meals his/her system wasn't getting around to it. As long as they were not extremely loose from the start, then he/she sounds fine. Back to top of page When thawing, is there a point where the food is considered dangerous and should be thrown out?
For my dogs here, it is when the smell of the meat is so bad I nearly throw up ;-). That usually takes a quite a number of days of being thawed out in the fridge. If it smells a little 'gamey' (a few days old) I will still feed it. With a dog new to BARF I would try and keep the meat fairly fresh for a while though. Easiest way is to thaw slowly in the fridge, or to thaw for a few hours or overnight in a container on the kitchen counter. Just thaw as much as you need for one day at a time.
Back to top of page
Can I use my microwave for thawing RMBs?
When using a microwave to thaw RMBs, you must be extremely careful, as the microwave can begin to cook the food from the inside (the bones) out. Thawing RMBs in the microwave is NOT the recommended method. NEVER, EVER give your dog a cooked bone, as it can splinter and cause severe internal complications. The safest method of thawing is room temperature or, if you're in a bit of a hurry, soak the RMBs in cold water in the kitchen sink. Back to top of page
Is it possible that my dog is allergic to the Omega oils?
Yes, it is possible. I think some dogs have been known to react to Flaxseed oil. If this is what you are using, you may want to try fish oil as an alternative source. Back to top of page Can I still BARF my dog while traveling?
Yes, you can. When I travel if I have room for an extra cooler, I freeze RMB meals in separate portions so I can take one meal out at a time. I try to use a separate cooler for RMB so it isn't opened as much. I also freeze the RMBs a week or two in advance so they stay frozen longer.If I don't have a lot of extra room for a cooler, some options are:1. Shopping when you get to location (although this can be pricey and isn't always an option)2. Canned mackerel/tuna/salmon3. Cottage Cheese 4. Natural Applesauce5. I've even fed canned green beans and other canned veggies6. Oma's Pride Frozen Raw Freeze-DriedIn terms of feeding the "correct balanced diet", remember that you are looking at the diet "over time" versus a daily diet. I don't try to bring any veggie mix with me when I travel. From what I've found, it doesn't work too well and gets messy. There is also someone on the list who just feeds the dog, whatever they are eating at that time. While it might not be the exact ratios, it still is probably better than kibble. Back to top of page What are proper food safety techniques?
Basic food safety techniques are really not much difference for handling dog food as they are for people food. Basically they involve washing your hands after handling meat etc, making sure cleaning cloths are clean and washed regularly (or use paper towels) and washing down benches with soap and hot water to curb bacteria growth (I use vinegar too). Some people do additional things, but these are the basics. Back to top of page

What are Satin Balls? Can they really put weight on my skinny dog?
The recipe and information on Satin Balls can be found here. Satin balls are not treats. They are a recipe that was developed to assist with putting weight on dogs. They were not developed as part of the BARF diet, but independently from it and are used by people who feed kibble as equally as those who feed home cooked or raw natural diets. The fact that they can be served either raw or cooked is the main factor that makes them 'acceptable' for all these. When it comes to the BARF diet though, there are some aspects about them that we may not like (the cereal for one). My suggestion is for those that want to feed something like a satin ball but do not like the recipe is to devise your own BARF friendly ones! Not that hard to do really :-). Back to top of page How can a BARF diet reduce the chances of my dog bloating?
The chances of bloat are much less than on kibble. It is quite rare for a dog to bloat when they are eating a raw diet, for a couple of reasons.The first is that raw food doesn't swell like kibble which can sometimes cause problems. The second thing is that most dogs eat more slowly when they are eating raw food compared to the familiar "inhale" style eating that dogs use when they are eating kibble. Because they aren't inhaling their food, less air is sucked into the stomach. Another reason is that chewing allows the dog's body to prepare for digestion. The necessary juices and acids are released slightly prior to the "deposit" of food into the stomach. Back to top of page I think my dog is allergic to BARF...how can I be sure?
If you are truly concerned that something in the diet is causing a problem, the only true way to identify it and remove it is with an elimination diet. Basically, go right back to feeding one thing only for a time (no supplements or anything else, including treats) and then gradually add things back one at a time and watch for a reaction. As every dog is different, this is the only way you will know for sure what your particular dog is reacting to. It is important to keep a daily diary of each new food item introduced, and is best to wait two days before adding a new food item or even a supplement.
Here's a great article called, "Allergies: They're NOT Just for Humans Anymore."If it is not a food-related allergy, changing the diet around - for a dog already on BARF that is - is going to have minimal impact. Basically, if the cause of the allergy is still around, your dog is still likely to react to it no matter what you feed.That said, BARF can have a positive (if not always total) effect in relation to non-food related allergies. This effect, however, is generally LONG TERM. Basically BARF helps to build the immune system which allows your dog to fight off the allergies when they occur. Over time, as the immune system strengthens, this can help to lessen their impact. While some effects may be immediate when switched to BARF, some dogs continue subtle improvements over a number of years. In simpler terms, allergies are an over reaction of the immune system usually brought about by a weakness or imbalance in the body (such as vaccinations, a chronic illness, virus, food, environmental, or thing(s) she/he comes in contact with). You can help boost your dog's immune system by increasing Vitamin C (to bowel tolerance) and adding Vitamin E. The herbs Echinacea and Goldenseal Root also help to boost the immune system.
Back to top of page
Will feeding raw meat make my dog vicious/mean and create a "blood lust?"
Basically, this IS a myth. There is NO causative relationship between eating raw meat and wanting to kill animals. It has nothing to do with what a dog is fed and has everything to do with natural prey drive, training and socialization. For example, some breeds like the husky can have a very high prey drive. If raised around animals and trained not to chase them, a lot of them will have no problem co-existing happily NO MATTER WHAT THEY ARE FED. With a lot of dogs, the instinct is a very ingrained primal one and the sight of an animal running can bring this out in them NO MATTER WHAT THEY ARE FED. Dogs can easily distinguish between what they are protecting and what they are eating.
Remember that kibble has not been around that long. For generations man has been feeding raw meat and bones to their dogs. I do not think in the hard reality of life dogs would have lasted too long as man's helpers in the field, on the farm or elsewhere if eating raw meat gave them a blood lust for the other animals around. Imagine an outback station owner for example. The dogs eat the foods the producer produces - the leftover cuts of the animals they slaughter for themselves or the old culls. The nearest town is a couple of hours by light plane or perhaps a 10 hour drive down the track. Before transport such as this, it may have taken a couple of days to get to the neighbors place. Now imagine if all the dogs they use to help them with the stock killed their stock because of the raw meat they were eating. Do you think they would still keep dogs? Would the Australian Cattle Dog or Kelpie have been developed as a breed? I doubt it - they would have all been shot a long long time ago. Yep, some dogs may turn out to be 'stock killers'. This happens. But as we have found, even kibble fed dogs can be stock killers.

Dental Care Q&A

2008-07-06T16:36:00.004-04:00

Healthy Mouth = Healthier Life
Each year, February is designated as Pet Dental Health month. Various organizations, such as the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), and the American Veterinary Dental Society promote pet dental health awareness campaigns. February isn't the only time to think about good oral health...keeping your pet's teeth in gums in good shape has many more benefits than simply fresh breath (although that is very important, too!). Now is the time to schedule that checkup for your pet to ensure the best dental health possible.

My pet has bad breath. Are bad teeth and gums the cause?
Most likely, YES. However, it is very important to schedule a visit to the veterinarian. In rare cases, some diseases or situations can cause bad breath in the absence of, or in addition to, tooth/gum disease. Conditions such as kidney failure, diabetes, nasal or facial skin infections, cancers, or situations where the animal is ingesting feces or other materials, can cause bad breath with or without periodontal disease.

What actually causes the bad breath when tooth/gum disease is present?
Bad breath, medically known as "halitosis", results from the bacterial infection of the gums (gingiva) and supporting tissues seen with periodontal disease (periodontal = occurring around a tooth).

What is the difference between plaque and tartar?
Plaque is a colony of bacteria, mixed with saliva, blood cell, and other bacterial components. Plaque often leads to tooth and gum disease. Dental tartar, or calculus, occurs when plaque becomes mineralized (hard) and firmly adheres to the tooth enamel then erodes the gingival tissue.

What can happen if my pet's teeth aren't cleaned?
Both plaque and tartar damage the teeth and gums. Disease starts with the gums (gingiva). They become inflamed - red, swollen, and sore. The gums finally separate from the teeth, creating pockets where more bacteria, plaque, and tartar build up. This in turn causes more damage, and finally tooth and bone loss.

This affects the whole body, too. Bacteria from these inflamed oral areas can enter the bloodstream and affect major body organs. The liver, kidneys, heart, and lungs are most commonly affected. Antibiotics are used prior to and after a dental cleaning to prevent bacterial spread through the blood stream.

But my pet is only 3 years old! Isn't this an "old dog/cat disease"?
No - dental disease is NOT just for the senior pets. From the Pets Need Dental Care, Too web site:
"Without proper dental care, 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats show signs of oral disease by age three."

My pet doesn't seem like s/he is in any pain. Do they experience oral pain?
They may not verbalize or complain like a human would, but animals most likely feel pain with periodontal disease. The pain levels may be low, or very noticeable, and it varies with each animal. Obvious signs of oral pain may include: "chattering" teeth while eating or grooming, drooling, crying out, and refusing to eat.

My pet lost a tooth the other day. S/he seems fine. Do I need to do anything?
Yes - please see your veterinarian as soon as possible to check the pocket and other teeth. Exposed tissue can be very painful and are open to infection.

My vet has recommended a dental for my pet. What should l expect?
If your pet has a lot of periodontal disease, your vet will likely prescribe antibiotics for a few days prior to the dental. This will reduce the infection in the mouth and the spread of bacteria via the bloodstream. Pets need to be anesthetized for a full dental cleaning. Scaling tartar can be done while awake, but for a thorough oral exam and cleaning, animals must be anesthetized. Scaling tartar on an awake animal, without polishing the teeth, leaves a rough surface to the tooth, predisposing the tooth for more plaque and tartar accumulation, quicker. Most vets strongly urge pre-anesthetic blood work to ensure that everything else is OK with your pet.

Your pet will be anesthetized, any medications or fluids will be administered, and the vet or veterinary technician will scale the teeth, examine the gums (and any pockets), extract diseased teeth*, and polish the teeth. The equipment used on your pet's teeth is much like you would find in a human dental office.

*There are other options - such as root canals, crowns, etc. Please speak with your veterinarian about these options, or seek a referral to a veterinary dental specialist.

How can I care for my pet's teeth at home?
It is important to use products specifically designed for dogs and cats. Do not use human toothpaste on your pet's teeth. Products are available for cats and for ]dogs. Your veterinarian or veterinary technician can show you the proper techniques for your pet. Some animals do well with a toothbrush, some do not. Other products include finger swabs, tooth 'cloths', and mouth rinses. Talk to your vet about what type of product would work best for your pet. Ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily, as with humans. Even once every few days will be a big help.

It is important to watch the treats, too. The soft, gummy treats can be especially bad for the teeth - they are soft, sticky, and full of sugar. Treats such as raw carrots for dogs are a much healthier choice. There are many "dental treats" on the market now to reduce plaque and tartar buildup.

Dental Care For Your Pet
Three Steps to Success
Your pet needs dental care - regular, professional care from your veterinarian, as well as care at home from you. The American Veterinary Dental Society recommends that pet owners follow three basic steps:

STEP 1: Take your pet to the veterinarian for a dental exam. Don’t wait for his annual checkup if you suspect a problem.

STEP 2: Begin a dental care regimen at home. Your veterinarian can suggest steps that may include brushing your pet's teeth. One of the most convenient and effective ways to combat oral disease is feeding specially formulated foods proven effective in combating plaque and tartar buildup. The Seal of Acceptance from the Veterinary Oral Health Council, an organization initiated by the American Veterinary Dental Society to guide consumers, appears on products that meet defined standards for plaque and tartar control in dogs and cats. For further information on the VOHC or their product standards, visit www.vohc.org.

STEP 3: Schedule regular veterinary checkups. These are essential in helping your veterinarian monitor the progress of your pet's dental health routine. Your veterinary health care team can help you schedule the appropriate visits.

Good Dog Food for those on a Budget!

2008-07-02T17:54:00.003-04:00

I would like to start off by thanking Sedona for this article. She is one of Dogsters many nutrition oriented pups, and does what she can to help people make good nutrition choices for their dogs.

Haha, I tricked you. This is a math lesson! It's easy and important math though, so heads off the desk.

Okay, I’ve heard a gazillion times that all these fancy foods we Dogsters talk about are too expensive. Really they aren’t that expensive once you break it down. I’ll show you how to do it so you’ll be able to see that you really CAN afford dog foods without a bunch of chemicals.

Okay, first thing you need to do is figure out how many calories your dog needs a day. There are lots of formulas out there, but this should give you a rough estimate.

desired weight/2.2 * 30 add 70 = calories per day

I’ll do Sedona 55/2.2= 25
25*30=750
750 70=820. Sedona needs about 820 calories per day.

Okay, now let’s break down the price of foods. I picked one of the most expensive foods and one of the cheapest foods just to show how there isn’t that big of a difference in price once you break it down. The prices are regular prices at www.petfoodirect.com

Orijen Adult 29.7 lb bag costs $49.99

Beneful Orignal Adult 35.2 lb bag costs $31.99

Find the amount of calories per pound of the food.

Orijen has 1909 calories per pound.

Beneful has 1674 calories per pound.

Okay, now break it down into price per calorie.

Orijen Adult: 1909 * 29.7 = 56697.3
49.99 / 56697.3 = 0.0008817.
Orijen costs $0.0008817 per calorie

Beneful Original: 1674 * 35.2 = 58924.8
31.99 / 58924.8 = 0.000542901
Beneful costs $0.000542901

Okay, now take how many calories per day your dog needs.

Sedona needs 820.

Orijen: 820 * 0.0008817 = $0.722994 per day
0.7229944 * 365 (one year) = $263.89

Beneful: 820 * 0. 000542901 = $0.44517882 per day
0.44517882 * 365 (one year) = $162.49

Orijen – Beneful
263.89 – 162.49 = $101.40 per year, or $8.45 per month.

To feed my dog one of the MOST EXPENSIVE FOODS it’ll only cost me an extra $8.45 per month. I understand that some people do not have an extra 9 bucks a month, but those people don’t have to feed one of the most expensive foods either. You can find a great food without ugly chemicals that you can afford! I swear!

This is a list of calories per pound in dog foods. Some are not exact because the manufactures would only provide the caloric information per cup and did not include the weight. Therefore I picked the weight of the cup to figure a rough estimate of calories per pound. All estimates (shown as “Brand” (estimated)) are based on 1 cup = 115 grams. All other numbers are according to the manufacture except where noted.

?-- denotes an unknown amount of calories and that I've contacted the company for the information.

Alpo:?--

Artemis:
Fresh Mix – 1634
Maximal Dog – 1818
Weight Management - 1497
Small Breed Puppy – 1690
Small Breed Adult – 1674
Small Breed Senior - 1561
Med/Lg Puppy – 1679
Med/Lg Senior - 1546

Avoderm:
Chicken and Brown Rice – 1568
Lamb and Brown Rice - 1706

Beneful:
Original -1674
Healthy Radiance – 1726
Healthy Harvest – 1646

Bil-Jac: ?--

Blue Buffalo:
Chicken and Brown Rice – 1673
Lamb and Brown Rice – 1544
Fish and Sweet Potato – 1620
Wilderness - 1702

By Nature:
Puppy – 1860
Adult – 1642
Active – 1760
Pork Sweet Potato – 1665
Salmon and Yogurt – 1600
Duck Sweet Pea – 1600
BrightLife – 1648 (estimated weight 4oz per cup)
Organic Chicken – 1600

California Natural:
Lamb and Rice – 1814
Chicken and Rice – 1860
Low Fat Lamb – 1586
Low Fat Chicken - 1555
Herring and Sweet Potato – 1579
Lamb Puppy – 1930
Chicken Puppy – 1722

Canidae:
All Life Stages – 1875
Chicken and Rice – 1899
Lamb and Rice – 1828
Platinum – 1600

Chicken Soup:
Puppy – 1690
Adult – 1633
Adult Light – 1404
Senior – 1529
LB Puppy – 1639
LB Adult – 1621

Diamond:
Hi-Energy – 1736
Original – 1540
Maintenance – 1604
Performance - 1779
Premium – 1766
Naturals Lamb – 1636
Naturals Extreme – 2141
Naturals Chicken – 1685
Naturals Beef - 1643

Eagle Pack:
Natural Formula – 1604
Sm and Med Breed Pup – 1756
Lg and Giant Pup – 1609
Power Formula – 1796
Original Adult – 1680
Lg and Giant Adult – 1673
Maturity – 1507
Reduced Fat – 1522
HS Chicken and Rice – 1669
HS Duck and Oatmeal – 1659
HS Lamb and Rice – 1653
HS Anchovy – 1666
HS Lg and Giant Pup – 1600
HS Lg and Giant Adult – 1673
HS Senior – 1636
HS Small and Mini Pup – 1830
HS Small and Mini Adult – 1884

Eukanuba: ? Doesn’t work

Evo:
Regular (large and small bites) – 1929
Red Meat (large and small bites) – 1834
Reduced Fat - 1643

Fromm:
Surf and Turf – 2000
Duck and Sweet Potato – 1800
Chicken A’ La Veg – 1800
Whitefish and Potato – 1675
Salmon A’ La Veg – 1850

Good Life Recipe: ?--

Halo: ?—

Healthwise:
Chicken and Oatmeal – 1705
Lamb and Oatmeal – 1668
Weight Control – 1545
Chicken Puppy - 1809

Horizon Legacy:
Adult - 1723
Puppy - 1791

Iams:
Puppy - 1947
Large Breed Puppy - 1844
Adult Chunks (and Mini) - 1845
Large Breed Adult - 1831
Weight Control - 1751
Active Maturity - 1768

Innova:
Adult - 1895
Large Breed Senior - 1586
Puppy - 1818

Kibbles N’ Bits (estimated):
Mini Bits – 1415
Original – 1296
Beefy Bits – 1292
Homestyle Chicken – 1292
Homestyle Beef – 1296
Wholesome Medley – 1178
Balanced Bites – 1285
Brushing Bites – 1427
Golden Years – 1439

Merrick:
Cowboy Cookout – 1633
Grammy’s Pot Pie – 1707
Turkducken – 1660
Wilderness Blend – 1660
Campfire Trout Feast – 1679
Senior Medley – 1531
Puppy Plate - 1579
Before Grain Buffalo – 1625
Before Grain Chicken – 1633
Before Grain Salmon – 1625
Before Grain Tuna – 1706

Natural Balance:
Ultra Premium – 1632
Ultra Premium Small Bites - 1660
Reduced Calorie – 1440
Potato and Duck - 1492
Potato & Duck Small Bites - 1610
Sweet Potato and Fish – 1484
Sweet Potato and Venison – 1548
Vegetarian – 1502
Organic - 1577

Nature’s Best:
Chicken and Brown Rice (reg and small) – 1674
Lamb and Brown Rice (reg and small) - 1692

Nature’s Logic (estimated):
Chicken – 2178
Lamb – 2178
Venison – 2178
Duck and Salmon – 2178

Nature’s Recipe (estimated):
Toy Breed – 1332
Terrier Breed – 1423
Large Breed Puppy – 1383
Large Breed Adult – 1312
Venison and Rice – 1186
Vegetarian – 1194
Chicken Rice Barley – 1233
Lamb Rice Barley – 1206
Fish and Potato – 1225
Puppy Lamb – 1312
Adult Lamb – 1253
Senior Lamb – 1206
Turkey Fruit/Veg – 1356

Nature’s Variety:
Chicken Instinct – 2576
Rabbit Instinct – 2376
Duck Instinct – 2289
Chicken Prairie – 1880
Beef Prairie – 1880
Lamb Prairie – 1967
Salmon Prairie – 2011
Venison Prairie – 2087

Nutro:
Max Adult - 1675
Ultra Adult - 1583
Natural Choice Lamb and Rice - 1584
Natural Choice Chicken and Rice - 1584

Orijen:
Adult – 1909
6 Fish – 1909
Puppy – 2045
Large Breed Puppy – 1909
Senior – 1636

Pedigree: ?—

Pet Promise:
Daily Health – 886
Healthy Growth – 894
Healthy Weight – 790
**These seem extremely low, but this is the information provided to me by the company**

Pinnacle:
Chicken and Oats – 1656
Trout and Sweet Potato – 1553
Duck and Potato – 1532
Peak Protein – 1864

Purina Dog Chow: ?--

Purina One: ?--

Purina Pro Plan:
Beef and Rice – 1887
Chicken and Rice – 1987
Lamb and Rice - 1828
Selects Large Breed Lamb – 1916
Selects Chicken – 1872
Selects Lamb – 2088
Selects Salmon - 1834
Selects Turkey - 1890

Royal Canin:
Mini Adult 27 - 1803
Medium Adult 25 - 1766
Maxi Large Breed - 1801

Science Diet:
Adult Original (reg and small) – 1684
Lamb and Rice (reg and small) – 1680
Light Adult (reg and small) – 1362
Light Large Breed – 1376
Adult Large Breed – 1683
Oral Care – 1475
Active Adult – 2099
High Energy - 2099

Soild Gold:
Hund-n-Flocken – 1782
Wolfking - 1525
Mmillennia - 1873
Wee Bit - 1670
Barking at the Moon - 1940
Holistique Blendz - 1635
Hundchen Flocken Puppy - 1578
Wolfcub Puppy - 1601

Taste of the Wild:
High Prairie – 1691
Pacific Stream – 1636
Wetlands - 1705

Timberwolf:
Wild and Natural – 1809
Ocean Blue – 1670
Lamb, Barely, Apple – 1781
Dakota Bison – 1673
Wilderness Elk – 1673
Southwest Chicken – 1790
Black Forest – 1605

Wellness:
Chicken Formula – 1623
Lamb Formula – 1591
Whitefish Formula – 1595
Healthy Weight – 1445
Just for Puppy – 1727
Just for Seniors – 1464
Core – 1636
Core Ocean – 1636
Core Reduced Fat – 1486

So You are Confused by Dogfood?

2008-07-02T17:44:00.003-04:00

First off, I would like to thank Sedona and Gunner PAWS from Dogster.com
They pieced/wrote this fine article together to make a very understandable and reliable dog food information reference.
Sedona's Dogster
Gunner PAWS's Dogster

INTRODUCTION
You’re probably reading this because you’ve just learned the dog food you are feeding your dog is garbage or maybe you’re just reading this to get some more info. Maybe you’ve been looking for a new food but you just don’t know how to get started. What ever the case may be this is a guide to help you pick out a good healthy food for your dog.

First, dogs are carnivores. See those sharp teeth they have? Those are for crunching bones and tearing flesh. If dogs were meant to eat lots of grains, fruits, and veggies they’d have flat molars like humans and bears. Remember learning about the Brontosaurus and the Tyrannosaurus Rex? The main differences between the two dinosaurs were their teeth and diet. The Brontosaurus had flat teeth for eating and grinding plants, and the T-Rex had sharp teeth for eating meat. Dogs have the same kind of teeth as the T-Rex did. They are carnivores, not herbivores or omnivores. Carnivores need MEAT, not a bunch of plants. Okay, now we have that out of the way.

HOW TO PICK A MEATY KIBBLE
The first step in picking out a wholesome kibble is to make sure there is plenty of meat in the food. For example, if chicken is listed as the first ingredient and there is no other meat listed, there isn’t enough meat in the food. Here’s why; all animals are made up of mostly water, and water is heavy. The ingredients on all bags of dog food are listed by weight. Once the chicken is cooked and all that water is taken out, the chicken weighs a whole lot less. So in reality, there is much less chicken meat in the food than there is of the other first 5 (or so) ingredients.

If chicken meal is listed as the first ingredient there is a probably good amount of meat in the food. Chicken meal is regular ole chicken meat that’s already been cooked and its water has been taken out. You can think of chicken meal as a cousin to chicken jerky. Since it’s already been cooked the weight of the chicken meal won’t change during processing.

If you don’t quite catch the meaning of that, here’s an analogy to help out a little. Imagine the difference between one balloon filled with water that weighs 3 pounds, and 3 pounds worth of empty balloons. You have to have a lot of empty balloons to make three pounds right? Well that’s how it is with chicken and chicken meal. Chicken is full of water just like the water balloon. Once they cook the 3 pounds worth chicken to make kibble the chicken shrinks because all the water is out of it. It’s like if you were to empty the water balloon. The amount of meat is hardly anything compared to already cooked 3 pounds of chicken meal, and the size of the empty water balloon is nothing compared to the 3 pounds of the empties.

Ideally you want a food that has both a whole meat and a meat meal. Although a meat meal (like chicken meal, beef meal, lamb meal, salmon meal, etc) is a good thing to find on your ingredient list, that stuff is overly cooked. Since it has spent so much time in the oven at really high temperatures, it has a lot of the nutrition cooked out of it. A regular meat source (like chicken, beef, lamb, salmon, etc) would have a more vitamins and minerals compared to the meal form, but a meal provides a whole lot of meat based protein. That’s why it’s good to have both.

Take a moment to look at the guaranteed analysis of the dog food. The guaranteed analysis will help you get a better idea of the amount of meat (protein) in the food. Some foods have as little as 18% protein, and some as much as 42% protein. You want at least 21%. That’s as low as one should go. Even at that level you should probably add fresh meat to the kibble. If you find a kibble that has a few meats and meat meals in the first few ingredients and 35% protein, you’ve probably found a good food. Remember that carnivores need meat! I can’t stress that enough.

There is a lot of hoopla about high protein levels causing liver and kidney damage to dogs. That’s pure bologna. Right now, there is no safe upper limit established for the percentage of protein in dog food. This means that tests so far show that no damage has been caused by dogs eating high protein (unless pre-existing damage or failure exists). The tests that originally showed damage from high protein were done on rats and the results were inferred to be the same for dogs. That inference however, makes no sense because dogs and rats are biologically different. That’s like comparing apples to machine guns. Not the same whatsoever.

BY-PRODUCTS AND UGLY STUFF
Now, you might scratching your head and wondering why the label on the back of the bag of your dog food doesn’t actually say chicken or chicken meal but says chicken by-product meal. Well, as it turns out you haven’t been feeding your dog much meat.

SPECIFIED MEAT BY-PRODUCTS
The organization who is in charge of dog food, the AAFCO, thinks it is okay for your dog to eat by-products. Well, they are half right. Specified meat by-products are the dry, ground, rendered, parts of slaughtered animals. Depending on the animal (chicken, beef, pork, salmon, etc) these by-products include heads, necks, feet, intestines, bones, undeveloped eggs, connective tissues, and a whole slew of other stuff left over from human processing. If your dog was feral and had to hunt for herself this is all stuff she’d eat anyway, so no biggie right? Not really. Dogs need meat to be their healthiest. So if the kibble doesn’t list a meat (like chicken or beef) or a meat meal (like salmon meal or lamb meal) and only has meat by-products, you aren’t giving your pet carnivore much meat.

UNSPECIFICED MEAT PRODUCTS
Okay, now some of you are going “Hey, my bag of food doesn’t even mention a specific animal. What gives?” If your bag of food has ingredients like poultry meal, fish meal, meat meal, liver meal, meat and bone meal, etc it’s best to just throw that food away right now. There is no telling what kind of animals are in that food. There could raccoon road kill, euthanized horses, or even cats and dogs in that food. That’s right! There are no laws preventing companion animals being made into pet food. As sick as that is, it’s the truth.

CARBOHYDRATES
Okay so you’ve found a food that has a good amount of meat without any uglies in it. Now what do you do? You need to take a second to look over the carbohydrate sources in the food. There are many different sources of carbohydrates used in kibble. You want a food that uses WHOLE forms of carbohydrates. Whole forms of carbs have more nutritional value than fragments. The main reason dog food makers use fragments is to beef up the protein levels in the food. There isn’t enough protein in the food because there isn’t any meat.

Here’s some examples of whole vs. fragment:
White Rice is whole, Brewers Rice is a fragment.
Potato is whole, Potato Product is a fragment.
Oatmeal is whole, Oat Hulls are fragments.

Do you see where I’m going with this? If there are extra words attached to the name of the carb more often than not, it’s a fragment. Besides, would you eat something called Potato Product? I think not.

If there is multiple carbohydrate sources in the food keep in mind that all those different carbs add up. If there are only one or two meat sources listed and five carbohydrate sources, there is a possibility that there are more carbs than meat in the food. Looking at the guaranteed analysis for protein levels will help ensure you don’t pick a carby food.

FILLERS
Fillers are just junky stuff no one uses so dog food makers throw it in food. It has no real nutritional value except as a source of fiber. Fiber is a good thing, but you can get fiber from other sources like the white rice and oatmeal written about above. Avoid ingredients like Corn Bran, Oat Hulls, Rice Hulls, Wheat Middlings, and Cellulose. Those are floor sweepings, seriously. There are other fillers that aren’t so bad. A little doesn’t hurt but if there are more than a couple fillers in the food it’s probably best to avoid it. Some of the better fillers are Tomato Pomace, Apple Pomace, Citrus Pulp, and Dried Beet Pulp. Just make sure there isn’t a ton of that stuff in there. Remember that the ingredients on the bag are listed by weight so if a filler comes before a good ingredient, there is more filler than the good stuff.

FAT
Fat is probably the second most important ingredient besides meat. Good healthy fats are essential to your dog’s health. Okay, remember reading about the unspecified meat sources in the food. Well, there can be unspecified fat sources in the food too. If your ingredient list says poultry fat, it’s an unspecified fat source. Yuck. If they aren’t honest enough to list what kind of animal is in the food, then that company isn’t going to get my business. If it says chicken fat then YAY! Chicken is chicken; we all know what that is. This goes for all types of fats not just chicken. If it says animal fat, that’s no good. If it says pork fat then it’s good. Get it? Knowing what species your dog is eating is important.

OIL AS FAT
Some companies use oils as their fat source. That’s fine. I prefer oils made from animals (like Salmon Oil) as opposed to plant sources (like Flaxseed Oil or Canola Oil) because my dog (like your dog) is a carnivore. If your dog doesn’t have a problem with plants oils (like allergies and such) then you’re probably all right. Just make sure it doesn’t say Vegetable Oil because that’s unspecified and could have some scary stuff in there.

FLAVOR ENHANCERS
Ha, it’s pretty funny when you think about it. These low quality dog foods are so terrible they actually have to add flavor and smell to the kibble to make dogs want to eat it.

Tallow and Lard are two very bad forms of fat. These fats are nutritionally shallow. They aren’t a good source of linoleic acid which is important to a dog’s health, and are just there because they smell and taste appealing to canines. Avoid those ingredients.

You also want to look out for anything called digest. Digest is like a big stew of just about everything except the kitchen sink. Then they take that soupy mess and add it into the kibble or spray it on after the kibble is made. It has zero nutritional value and its presence on an ingredient list is proof that the food is crap.

Sugar, Sorbitol, Cane Molasses, Fructose, and Corn Syrup are all sweeteners. As yummy as candy and sweet stuff is, dogs don’t need that junk. Sweeteners can lead to obesity, Diabetes, and tooth decay. It’s not fun to be obese, sick, and toothless.

CHEMICALS
Dog food is chalk full of chemicals and dogs have to eat these chemical ridden foods everyday. Chemicals can build up in their bodies overtime and cause sickness.

You want to avoid artificial colors and dyes like Blue 2, Red 40, Yellow 5, Yellow 6 and stuff like that. Dogs don’t care what color their food is. Dog food manufactures put that stuff in there so we see the different colors and think the food is better or more appealing. It’s not. That junk is known to cause tumors and other health problems.

There are also some nasty preservatives you don’t want your dog to be eating. BHA, BHT, Ethoxyquin, and Propyl Gallate are all really bad stuff. BHA and BHT have been banned by a lot of countries because it’s a known human cancer causing agent. It’s still legal in the US though. Don’t risk it. Humans would only eat BHA/BHT once in awhile, but if it’s in your pet’s food they’d have to eat it everyday. Bad bad bad. Ethoxyquin is a stabilizer for rubber! It’s been banned for human consumption! It’s been known to cause all kinds of health problems! Steer clear of that stuff PLEASE! Propyl Gallate (aka Gallic Acid or Propyl Ester) is suspected to cause liver disease and cancer. You know, there are other options to preserve foods. Vitamin E, Vitamin C, and Rosemary do just as good of a job as those chemicals! They just happen to be more expensive but they are much safer than that other stuff.

There’s one more thing you should avoid. It’s located near the end of the ingredient list on that bag of food. It goes by the names Menadione Dimethyl-Pyrimidinol Bisulfate, Menadione Dimethyl-Pyrimidinol Bisulfite, Menadione Sodium Bisulfate Complex, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex, and Vitamin K3. It’s synthetic vitamin K. This is another ugly thing that you should really avoid. It’s been linked to a whole bunch of health problems. There are other whole food and natural ways to get vitamin K in kibble. Manufactures use K3 because it’s cheap.

WHY YOU SHOULD SWITCH
Have you noticed any of the following problems with your dog, lack of energy, itchy runny eyes, eye boogers, itchy skin, ears that smell bad, overall doggy odor, dull coat, excessive shedding, large smelly and loose stools, frequently impacted anal glands? None of those problems are normal for a healthy dog and most can be helped by switching to a better quality food.

A lot of dogs have food allergies or sensitivities that can cause all those above symptoms. The best way to make sure you’re not feeding things to your dog that their body can’t handle is to have an allergy test done by your Vet. If you’re not too keen on running out and getting your dog tested there are a few things you can do right now to help.

First, you should find a food that doesn’t have any of the poor quality ingredients I wrote about above. Sometimes that stuff just isn’t giving your dog enough nutrition to be their healthiest. Next you should check to see if there is soy, wheat, or corn in your food. Those are highly allergenic ingredients. A lot of dogs just can’t tolerate those at all. If there is none of that stuff in your food, check out the main ingredients. If you’ve been feeding the same brand of food or the same kind of protein for awhile your dog could have developed allergies to that kind of meat or carbohydrate.

So if the food you’ve been feeding has an ingredient list that reads like; Chicken, Chicken Meal, White Rice, Brown Rice, Barley etc you want to try a different food that looks nothing like the one you are currently eating. The new food could have an ingredient list like Salmon, Salmon Meal, Oatmeal, Sweet Potato etc. See how different that is? There’s no guarantee that it’s going to cure your dog but I bet it will help your dog.

SO WHAT IN THE HECK ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO FEED?
Well, there are lots of good foods out there. Since every dog is different it’s hard for me to say one food is better than another. What one dog does terribly on another dog could do wonderfully on. If you’re looking for a truly awesome and healthy food you’re not going to find it at your local grocery store or Wal-Mart. More than likely you’re going to have to go to a pet specialty store or order online.

THE PRICE OF PREMIUM
Premium foods are more expensive. From what I’ve seen, the really good foods average out at about $1.75 a pound whereas the food at the grocery store is about $.75 a pound. Huge difference isn’t it? Not really. The premium foods often have way more calories. So that 20lb bag of premium food that costs $35 it going to outlast the 20lb bag of food that costs $15. You probably think I’m full of it don’t you?

Okay, let’s break it down:

Purina Beneful Original has 1674 calories per pound of food. The cost of a 17.6 pound bag on PetFoodDirect.com is $19.49.
1674 * 17.6 = 29462.4 calories
So it costs $19.49 for 29463 calories (I rounded up).
Per calorie it costs you $0.00066.

Canidae All Life Stages has 1875 calories per pound of food. The cost of a 20 pound bag on PetFoodDirect.com is 25.79.
1875 * 20 = 37500 calories
So it costs $25.79 for 37500 calories.
Per calorie it costs you $0.00068.

There is hardly any difference in per calorie costs of the foods. Sure the price per pound of Canidae is higher, but you’re getting a heck of a lot more food for that price. Each piece of Canidae kibble is providing a lot more nutrition to your pet than each piece of Beneful kibble. You’d have to feed less Canidae than you would Beneful. Less food going in means less food coming out the other end. That’s a huge plus in my book.

INGREDIENTS COMPARISON
Since I’ve already used Canidae All Life Stages and Beneful as examples I’m going to go ahead and continue using them. I don’t mean to pick on Beneful. It’s just that it was the only lower quality food that I could find the calories per pound so I used it. The reason I chose Canidae ALS as an example is because I know it’s a great good food at a really reasonable price and it is pretty easy to find. There are many other great foods out there. Don’t think that Canidae is the end all be all of kibble.

Now let’s compare the ingredients of these two foods. I’m sure you’ve been paying attention so you should be able to pick out all the nasty ingredients right?

Beneful- Ground yellow corn, chicken by-product meal, corn gluten meal, whole wheat flour, animal fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols (form of Vitamin E), rice flour, beef, soy flour, sugar, sorbitol, tricalcium phosphate, water, salt, phosphoric acid, animal digest, potassium chloride, dicalcium phosphate, sorbic acid (a preservative), L-Lysine monohydrochloride, dried peas, dried carrots, calcium carbonate, calcium propionate (a preservative), choline chloride, added color (Yellow 5, Red 40, Yellow 6, Blue 2), DL-Methionine, Vitamin E supplement, zinc sulfate, ferrous sulfate, Vitamin A supplement, manganese sulfate, niacin, Vitamin B-12 supplement, calcium pantothenate, riboflavin supplement, copper sulfate, biotin, garlic oil, thiamine hydrochloride, pyridoxine hydrochloride, thiamine mononitrate, folic acid, Vitamin D-3 supplement, menadione sodium bisulfite complex (source of Vitamin K activity), calcium iodate, sodium selenite.

Canidae ALS- Chicken Meal, Turkey Meal, Brown Rice, White Rice, Lamb Meal, Chicken Fat (preserved with Mixed Tocopherols), Herring Meal, Flax Seed, Sun Cured Alfalfa Meal, Sunflower Oil, Chicken, Lecithin, Monocalcium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Choline Chloride, Linoleic Acid, Rosemary Extract, Sage Extract, Dried Enterococcus Faecium, Dried Lactobacillus Acidophilus Fermentation Product, Dried Aspergillus Oryzae Fermentation Extract, Dried Bacillus Subtilis Fermentation Extract, Inulin (from Chicory root), Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Fermentation Solubles, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Mixed Tocopherols (source of Vitamin E), Zinc Amino Acid Chelate, Manganese Amino Acid Chelate, Iron Amino Acid Chelate, Copper Amino Acid Chelate, Cobalt Amino Acid Chelate, Vitamin A Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Ascorbic Acid (source of Vitamin C), Niacin, Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B1), Riboflavin (source of B2), Beta Carotene, Calcium Pantothenate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Calcium Iodate, Folic Acid, D-Biotin, Sodium Selenite, Papaya, Vitamin B12 Supplement.

Do I actually need to explain this to you? Nearly every one of the bad ingredients I told you about before is in Beneful. There are two kinds of sugar in the first 10 ingredients. There are unspecified animals sources. There are dyes and nasty chemicals. What gives?

Do you see any of that junk in Canidae?

Now don’t you feel ripped off? Where’s the meat and all the fresh foods that are supposed to be in Beneful? If you are like me, you probably thought you were doing good for your dog buying a name brand food. That stuff is supposed to be good right? On the Beneful commercial it shows meat, rice, corn, and vegetables right? Well, where in the heck is that stuff? All I see are corn and chemicals!

CORN AND LOW QUALITY FOODS
A good indicator that you have a low quality food is the presence of corn. If you are feeding a food you got at a grocery store, chances are you’re feeding your dog mostly corn. Check the ingredients of the food you have or plan on feeding to your dog. Is there corn in there? Is it the first ingredient? Why would a dog need corn and meat-less by-products in their food instead of meat? If you ran out of dog food what would you feed your dog? An ear of corn? I hope not. If you have any sense, you’d most likely feed your dog a piece of meat. Then why have we all been buying big bags of corn for our dogs to eat?

Why do the big companies like Mars (Nutro, Pedigree, Royal Canin). Procter and Gamble (Iams, Eukanuba), and Nestle (Purina, Alpo) think that dogs don’t need any meat? What are candy and toilet paper making companies doing producing dog food anyway?

A few of you who are reading this are saying to yourself, “I had a dog live 18 years eating food like that and he was just fine.” Most of you that have a story like that have probably already stopped reading this. That’s okay. This is for the few of you that are still with me. A man named Buster Martin has been a beer drinker and smoker nearly his entire life. He’s 101 years old and he just competed in the London Marathon. Google him and read his story. If you had a dog live for 18 years eating mostly corn that dog is a genetic marvel just like Buster Martin. Most of us aren’t as lucky as Mr. Martin, and most of our dogs won’t be that lucky either. Dogs have very short life spans and providing them with the nutrition they need is an important way to keep them healthy for as long as possible.

A QUICK WORD ABOUT CANNED FOOD
Canned foods are less processed than kibble. They also provide your pet with much needed moisture. How do you know you’re getting a good kind of canned food though? You can use the same method as choosing a kibble. If the ingredient label on the canned food lists stuff like by-products, chemicals, lots of carbohydrate fragments, corn, soy, and other junk don’t get it. Simple as that. You should be able to recognize most of the ingredients in the food as food.

An example of a good food is: Chicken, Chicken Liver, Chicken Broth, Brown Rice, Eggs, Peas, Carrots, Flaxseed, Spinach, Menhaden Fish Oil, Vitamins, Dried Kelp, Salt, Taurine, Potassium Chloride, Minerals, Artichokes, Cranberries, Pumpkin, Tomato, Blueberries, Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale, Parsley.

And an example of a bad food is: Chicken, sufficient water for processing, poultry by-products, brewers rice, carob bean gum, sodium tripolyphosphate, carrageenan, minerals, vegetable oil, dried yam, guar gum, natural flavor blend, bay leaves, vitamins.

PUPPY, ADULT, AND SENIOR FOOD
There are four main types of dog foods on the market; Puppy, Adult Maintenance, Senior, and All Life Stages. The first three are pretty self explanatory. Puppy food is designed for growing puppies, adult maintenance is designed to maintain the health of an adult, senior formulas are designed for older, less active dogs and they are typically lower calorie versions of the adult. Senior formulas are also notorious for being full of fillers, so make sure to read those ingredient labels. All Life Stages (ALS) foods are designed to be used by every dog no matter the age.

LARGE BREED PUPPIES NEED DIFFERENT FOODS
Every dog is an individual, and therefore has unique needs. Large and giant breed puppies for example, should eat foods with a moderate protein percentage, as well as a calcium level of 1.5% or less. Also, it’s important to keep them lean to avoid extra pressure on the joints. These criteria ensure a proper growth rate, and help prevent joint issues in adulthood. Puppy foods, for the most part, should be avoided because they often promote a faster growth rate than is recommended.

WHAT FOOD DOGSTERS DON’T RECOMMEND
While Dogsters try not to ostracize anyone because of the food they feed, there are certain foods that are not recommended by the majority of members. Some of these companies listed make prescription foods. If you have a very sick dog that needs special foods, then you might have to feed your dog a food with pretty grody ingredients. Sometimes you just gotta do it. If your dog is very sick, please talk to your vet.

Take a look at the ingredients of the following foods and try to apply what you’ve learned to see why they aren’t considered that great.
Alpo - http://www.alpo.com
Beneful - http://www.beneful.com
Dad’s - http://www.dadspetcare.com
Purina Dog Chow - http://www.longliveyourdog.com
Iams - http://www.iams.com
Nutro - http://www.nutroproducts.com
Pedigree - http://www.pedigree.com
Purina One - http://www.purinaone.com
Pro Plan - http://www.proplan.com
Science Diet - http://www.hillspet.com
Royal Canin - http://www.royalcanin.com
Eukanuba - www.eukanuba.com

WHAT FOODS DOGSTERS DO RECOMMEND
This is a list of most of the foods frequently recommended (and fed by) Dogsters. Check out their ingredients lists and you’ll see why. All of these recommendations are for healthy dogs. There are other foods not on this list that are good too. This will at least give you a good starting out point.
Blue Buffalo - http://www.bluebuff.com
By Nature - http://www.bynaturepetfoods.com
Canidae - http://www.canidae.com
Natural Balance - http://www.naturalbalanceinc.com
Eagle Pack Holistic Select - http://www.eaglepack.com
Evanger’s - http://www.evangersdogfood.com
Fromm - http://www.frommfamily.com
Merrick - http://www.merrickpetcare.com
Timberwolf - http://www.timberwolforganics.com
Natura Products - http://www.naturapet.com
Wellness - http://www.wellnesspetfood.com
Nature’s Logic - http://www.natureslogic.com
Nature’s Variety - http://naturesvariety.com
Orijen - http://www.orijen.ca
Solid Gold - http://www.solidgoldhealth.com
Taste of the Wild - http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com
Ziwi Peak - http://www.ziwipeak.com

TREATS AND CHEWS
Treats and chews shouldn’t make up more than 10% of a dog’s diet. Any more than that and you run the risk of throwing off your dog’s vitamin and mineral ratios causing nutritional deficiencies. There are some really great and really terrible treats out there. Now that you’ve learned how to pick a good dog food, you should be able to find good nutritious snacks without ugly chemicals and by-products.

Here’s an example of a treat you would want to avoid.
Beggin’ Strips Original Bacon Flavor: Ground wheat, corn gluten meal, wheat flour, ground yellow corn, water, sugar, glycerin, soybean meal, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, bacon (preserved with sodium nitrite), salt, bacon fat (preserved with BHA), meat, phosphoric acid, sorbic acid (a preservative), calcium propionate (a preservative), natural and artificial smoke flavors, added color (Red 40, Yellow 5, Blue 1, Yellow 6).

See. It’s got that ugly stuff we talked about before.

Here’s an example of a good treat.
Wellness Pure Rewards Beef: Beef, Dried Chicory Root, Cultured Whey, Sea Salt, Lecithin, Garlic, Mixed Tocopherols (a natural preservative).

Biscuit or cookie type treats are very popular too. Compare these two biscuit treats and see which one is better.

Hills Science Diet Adult Canine Maintenance Treats with Real Chicken: Corn meal, brewers rice, chicken by-product meal, powdered cellulose, chicken, natural flavor, animal fat (preserved with BHA, propyl gallate and citric acid), dried egg product, minerals (potassium chloride, calcium carbonate, iodized salt, ferrous sulfate, zinc oxide, copper sulfate, manganous oxide, calcium iodate, sodium selenite), preserved with BHT and BHA, vitamins (choline chloride, vitamin A supplement, vitamin D3 supplement, vitamin E supplement, niacin, thiamine, calcium pantothenate, pyridoxine hydrochloride, riboflavin, folic acid, biotin, vitamin B12 supplement).

Old Mother Hubbard Old Fashioned Dog Biscuit: Wheat flour, oatmeal, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), molasses, charcoal, chicken, white cheddar cheese, eggs, turmeric, paprika, whole ground apples, whole ground carrots, garlic, sea salt.

In a good treat you should be able to recognize the ingredients as food.

You can also find good chews and bad chews. A bad chew’s ingredient list looks like this.
Busy Bone ChewBone Treat: Rice, glycerin, wheat flour, water, tricalcium phosphate, poultry by-product meal, gelatin, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, brewers dried yeast, sugar, dried beef stock, animal fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols (form of Vitamin E), wheat gluten, partially hydrogenated cottonseed oil, phosphoric acid, animal digest, salt, added color (Red 40, Yellow 5, Blue 1, Yellow 6 and other color), sorbic acid (a preservative), natural and artificial flavors, BHA (a preservative), BHT (a preservative).

Here’s another popular chew whose ingredients are severely lacking.
Greenies: Gelatin, Wheat Protein Isolate, Glycerin, Soy Protein Isolate, Sodium Caseinate, Natural Poultry flavour, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Vegetable Oil (Preserved with Propyl Gallate), Sodium Tripolyphosphate, Lecithin, Ground Flaxseed, Minerals (Calcium Carbonate, Magnesium Oxide, Zinc Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Potassium Iodide), Magnesium Monostearate, Vitamins (dl-Alpha Tocopherol Acetate [source of vitamin E], Vitamin B12 Supplement, Calcium Pantothenate, Niacin Supplement, Vitamin A Supplement, Riboflavin Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Biotin, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride [Vitamin B6], Thiamine Mononitrate [Vitamin B1], Folic Acid), Monoglycerides of Edible Fatty Acids, Choline Chloride, Potassium Sorbate (to preserve freshness), Chlorophyll.

The best chews are made from animals. Bones, ears, hooves, bullysticks, lungs, gullets, antlers, trachea, tendons, and other products like this make wonderful chews. They are fully digestible and will help keep your pet’s teeth clean just as well as the other two.

Okay, that is a basic rundown of dog foods and treats. There are SO many products out there and it can get overwhelming very quickly. If you’re looking to switch foods just take it slow. You’ll find the perfect food you’re looking for. I promise!

Here are a couple of places that can help you with your food search.
The Dog Food Project - http://www.dogfoodproject.com
Dog Food Analysis - http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com

Thanks to everyone who contributed and helped put this thing together! You all rock!

Sedona and Gunner PAWS

Deep Divine Doggie Massage

2008-07-01T01:03:00.002-04:00

MASSAGE HOW TO'S:

Does your dog seem tense and stiff? Maybe even a little crabby? If so, consider giving him a massage. A properly performed massage can help release pent up stress and negative energy, resulting in a calm and more peaceful pet.

The sensation of simple touch of the fur (skin) to the manipulation of muscles has shown to enhance the human animal bond, and sometimes even establish it. For the inactive and older pet, as well for the young or working pet, the owner can provide a gentle comforting touch. This helps provide security and calmness and will aid in relieving stress. Be aware that at home massage is different than the massage done by a certified massage therapist. These trained people can provide a more thorough massage, incorporating a variety of techniques.

The benefits from massage are many:

Increased flexibility
A general sense of wellness
Reduction of pain
Increased circulation
Calmness

Massage should always be a calming and gentle activity. Before you begin, make sure your dog is in a comfortable and quiet place. A table, the floor or even on the couch, are good places. The area should be padded and clean, and have plenty of fresh water available. This will allow the pet to receive the most benefit from the massage. The most important part of a massage is relaxation. Do not force your pet to submit to a massage if he really isn't interested. Never massage a lump and do not use massage in an animal with a fever or an infection. As with anything else, there may be times when massage does not help.

A couple of basic techniques that you can use at home include effleurage and passive touch. These are applied only three times during each session.
Effleurage:

Effleurage is a gentle, long stroke, which helps to warm the tissue. The amount of pressure applied to the animal is about 5 grams to a pound. This is a very, very light touch. One hand is on the pet at all time, while the other hand slowly slides down over the face, head, body, tail and outside of the legs. Make sure to go in the direction of the hair growth. Next, gently stroke up the inside of the legs, against the hair growth.

With hand over hand efflurage, one hand starts a stroke as the other hand ends a stroke. This leaves one hand connected to the animal at all times. Centripetal efflurage is a circle motion toward the heart. Be careful not to pull the hair. Do not touch areas of infection, open wounds or lumps.

Passive Touch:

When passive touch is applied, it is done with no pressure at all. Your hand is held on a muscle group only. A hand is held on the head, shoulder, along the side or the thigh and hip. This is done for a few moments. It will produce calmness, and help to relieve some pain. Your pet will be comforted by this weightless touch. Passive touch can be done anytime, while watching television or while out on a walk. Again, areas of infection, bony areas, open wounds and lumps are not touched.

MORE MASSAGE TIPS:

A gentle home massage can give your dog comfort as well as aiding the nervous system and increasing circulation. You can vary your home massage in a number of ways, but

Deep massage on dogs requires knowledge of anatomy and should be performed only by a trained and certified practitioner but there's no reason you can't give your pet a light, relaxing rubdown right at home.

Have your dog lie on a soft, firm surface such as a rug, although very small dogs can be done sitting or crouching on your lap. Start with several soft, slow strokes from head to tail. When your dog begins to relax, scratch gently behind the ears, moving to the cheeks, under the chin, over the nose, between the eyes and over the head. Rub each ear several times between your thumb and forefinger, working from base to tip.

Using three fingers, move slowly over the neck, shoulders, and chest in small, circular patterns, gently pinching folds of any loose skin in these areas. Lightly squeeze down the length of each foreleg, then place three fingers on each side of the leg and softly rub opposite directions several times. If your dog is comfortable with having his feet handled, use your thumb and forefinger and give each foot a couple of soft squeezes. This is a good time to look out for any burrs, ticks, or skin abnormalities. Use common sense in avoiding wounds, lumps, rashes or any sore spots.

The second phase of the massage can include placing your thumb and index finger on each side of the spine and 'walking' them toward the base of the tail, and then the outside of each thigh. You may also squeeze the length of the tail and move down the rear legs in the same way as on the front legs, if your dog doesn't protest. If at any point, your dog resists, respect his wish and move to the last area or technique he enjoyed. Finish up with several soft, slow strokes from head to tail.

Remember, deep massage should be done only by a trained and certified practitioner so it's very important to always keep your home massage light and gentle. When you finish, your dog will most likely be snoozing peacefully and you may be surprised to find your own tensions melted away as well

CONTINUED TIPS:

Massage can benefit dogs as much as humans. Massage speeds the healing process from surgery, alleviates arthritic pain, and relieves stress.

Michael Holloway, a Boca Raton pet massage therapist offers some practical tips and some do’s and don’ts for giving your dog a massage:

1. Lay the pet on its side and rock to calm and relax them
2. For trouble areas in dog’s body use a squeeze and release method of the skin and muscle tissue to relieve pain and tension.
3. For injured areas, apply ice for 10 minutes every 2 hours to relieve swelling and pain.
4. When beginning massages with your pet be patient with yourself and with your pet, it may be the first time for the both of you.
5. Always check with your Vet if you have any doubts.
6. Massage will bring you and your dog even closer together.

Do’s

1. Do make a special time for massage.
2. Do enjoy your time with your dog.
3. Do be Consistent. Consistency brings about change.
4. Do exercise together -- swim, walk & play
5. Do check with your Vet if any questions or doubts.

Don'ts:

1. Don't be afraid to use strong pressure, your dog will tell you if doesn't like it.
2. Don't make sudden changes in your pet’s lifestyle.
3. Don't massage deeply on a dog with cancer.

Be Fire friendly with your dog this 4th

2008-06-30T20:01:00.001-04:00

Dogs and fireworks: an uneasy combo

For humans, Independence Day generally means fun... or at least a barbecue and time off from work. But thanks to fireworks, the Fourth of July can be the scariest night of the year for dogs. The sudden, deafening sounds (what's loud to us is ear-piercing to them) and bursts of light in the sky can elicit serious anxiety, if not downright terror.

So to avoid sending your pets trembling with fear, hiding in remote parts of the house, or even running away, check out these tips for keeping them feeling safe and secure:

Keep your dog inside, and if possible, don't leave him alone in the house.
Drown out the noise of the fireworks as much as possible. Close your windows and turn on the radio or television.
Make sure he has access to his crate or "safe place" during the show, and casually toss him a treat once in a while.
Act normal! Talk to your dog in an upbeat voice and go about your usual activities. Coddling or babying isn't advised: your dog takes his cues from you, so if he senses that you're confident and unafraid, he'll be more likely to respond in a similar manner.

Not surprisingly, many fireworks-phobic dogs also exhibit fearful behaviors during other times of the year as well. Lightning and thunderstorms, for example, can be particularly scary. If you think your pup is experiencing regular anxiety, get help. A reputable trainer or behaviorist can help you both work through these issues.

Dog Starved to Death in Crate with Food outside kennel!

2008-06-29T19:44:00.004-04:00

(actual/original alleged Christine Abrams photography
not actual or original german shepherd picture)

Dog starved to death locked in crate
Cocoa, FL (US)

Incident Date: Tuesday, Jan 29, 2008
County: Brevard

Charges: Felony CTA
Disposition: Alleged

Alleged: Christine Dawn Abrams

Upcoming Court Dates:
» Friday, Jul 4, 2008

Case Updates: 2 update(s) available

A Cocoa woman, who neighbors said loved her dog, abandoned him in a crate for two months and then told investigators she knew it would starve to death. Cocoa police on March 13 arrested Christine Dawn Abrams, 29, on a charge of cruelty to animals in the death of her two-year-old German Shepherd, Ella. She is at the Brevard County Jail and faces a $1,000 bond. Neighbors told police they were concerned that they had not seen Abrams or Ella for several months. "It was unusual for Abrams to be away from her home for any length of time," neighbors said. One neighbor peeked through a window of Abrams' home on Peachtree Street and spotted the dead canine inside a locked metal crate. Police searched for Abrams for five hours and found her at a new address on Parapet Drive, less than six miles from her former residence.

Abrams told detectives that the water had been turned off at the house in January and she had to move. She locked Ella in a crate at the old home because her new roommate did not like dogs. Abrams told the detectives that she knew what would happen if Ella was left without food or water for an extended period of time, the report shows. "Abrams showed no remorse over the dog," the police report shows. Cocoa Police Department spokeswoman Barbara Matthews said "this was a dog that was current on all of his shots. All she had to do was leave the door open." Police added that there was a bag of dry dog food just a few feet from the dog's locked crate.

Case Updates

It will be another week before we find out if a judge will throw out evidence in an animal cruelty case. Investigators said Christine Abrams, 29, moved out of her home, but left her German Shepherd in a crate for two months with no food or water.

During Friday's hearing, animal rights groups demonstrated outside the courthouse, trying to get a judge to give Abrams a stern punishment for what happened to her dog.

A neighbor spotted the dog's body and called for help. However, the defense is trying to convince the judge that that Abrams' home was illegally searched because police didn't have a warrant.

The Humane Society hopes the judge throws out that argument.

Right now, the hearing is scheduled to resume Friday, July 4, in order to give the defense and prosecution time to argue over motions.

Source: CF News - June 28, 2008
Update posted on Jun 28, 2008 - 6:43PM

Back to Top

Police originally charged Abrams with one count of felony cruelty, which is punishable by up to five years in prison and a $5,000 fine, but prosecutors in the case reduced the charge to a first-degree misdemeanor -- which carries a penalty of only one year in jail and a $1,000 fine.

Chief Assistant State Attorney Wayne Holmes said the reduced charges take into account the unclear wording of laws set by the state legislature.

He encouraged residents to contact their state representatives and lobby for tougher laws that would make all animal cruelty a felony.

Source: National Enquirer - May 28, 2008
Update posted on May 28, 2008 - 11:42PM

GROOMER HAS IT GROOMER OF THE YEAR: ARTIST

2008-06-28T23:15:00.003-04:00

Congratulations to groomer ARTIST(front row, 4th on your right)!

In a pulse pounding, nerve wracking, and very close grooming dog show, young underdog Artist muscled his way to the top!

Artist beat Johnathon in an eight dog dog show, and came out on top when Johnathon faltered. Artist from the West Side now has the title GROOMER OF THE YEAR, and he has won a Waggin' Tails Mobile Grooming Salon worth 75,000 dollars, and a 50,000 cash prize!

CONGRATULATIONS ARTIST ON BECOMING GOTY!

Summer Tips for your Dog!

2008-06-28T21:10:00.002-04:00

SUMMER TIPS TO KEEP YOUR POOCH PROTECTED!

1.) Exercise your dog early in the morning or late at night. Since these are the cooler parts of the day, this will make the walk more comfortable for both you and your dog. I’m a believer in vigorous exercise for healthy dogs, but this is the time of year to back off on exercise intensity.

2.) Use doggie boots. You can find these at your local pet supply store. If you can’t walk your dog during the early and later hours of the day, this is a good way of protecting him. Heat rises from the ground, especially on surfaces like cement and asphalt, and dogs absorb and release heat through their feet. Just like boots prevent the dog from absorbing the cold in the winter, they also isolate heat.

3.) Watch for signs of dehydration. Dogs can't sweat. They cool off by panting, so an overheated dog will drool excessively. It will become lethargic, its eyes will be bloodshot, and it may appear a little pale. If you lift its skin, it will take longer than usual for the skin to fall back into place.

4.) Keep your dog hydrated! Different dogs have different needs when battling the heat. Keep in mind that darker coats absorb more heat than lighter coats. Also, overweight dogs are at higher risk for dehydration. Carry a bottle of water when going on a walk with your dog. Better yet have your dog carry it for you in a backpack or a vest! The water in the bottles will keep the dog cooler and also give the dog a sense of purpose.

5.) Find innovative ways to cool your dog. Don’t have air conditioning? No problem! Find a spot in the shade and set up a kiddie pool. Lay down a wet towel for your dog to lie on. Or simply set up a fan in front of a pan of ice. At the Dog Psychology Center, we have sprinklers that spray the dogs with a gentle mist of water.

6.) Dogs cool from the bottom up. Make sure to spray the paws and stomach, not just the top of the dog, when spraying it with water. A wet towel does more good on the bottom of your dog than when laid on the top of its coat.

7.) Let your dog dig! Your dog may resort to finding his own way to avoid the heat. Dogs in nature dig their dens not out of frustration but to find food, hide, give birth--or keep cool! If it’s possible, locate a shady area where it’s okay for your dog to dig.

8.) Let your dog check the weather. Dogs don’t have the Weather Channel, so they don’t know why they are being denied a long walk for the day. Allow your dog to step outside and feel for itself that it is too hot, too wet, or too cold to go on a long walk. Instinctually, the dog will understand that it has to shorten its walk, or simply come back inside where it’s safe.

9.) Never leave your dog in a parked car. The car retains more heat than an open area, even if it is in the shade. Plus, a dog may get overexcited in the car due to passersby or panic from claustrophobia, making dehydration more likely. On longer trips, make sure you have water for the dog and keep the AC running.

10.) Use hot weather as an excuse to swim more often! The best activity you can do in summertime or hot weather is swimming. Instead of walking the dog, take the dog on a swim! If you hold on and allow your dog to take you around the pool, it becomes a powerful bonding experience for the two of you, similar to the walk.

Amber is 3rd in Helium top-rated articles!

2008-06-28T20:18:00.002-04:00

My mommy went onto her helium today, and turns out her article is the 3 most liked by Helium Members! So she is letting me post it here!

I am a Dog, writing in human perspective. Trying to get some communication in the "Dog-Lish" Dictionary and the "English" Dictionary.

There is a difference between our language. Your manners mean waving politely, exchanging kind words, and shaking hands or making friendly gestures. But dogs are a complex species, and in our dictionary, "manners" means: ramming your nose into the crotch of your best friend, sniffing every inch of their body(especially the rear-end),barking, rough playing, and a good nip if your friend is out of line.

Okay, okay. Not very pleasant is it? We are dogs, and we try to abide by our master's laws and rules, but it is sometimes complicated. Why can't I indulge in a good genital sniffing? Because you say it is nasty and I'm a "Baa-ad" dog. Why? That is how I get to know you. Why can't I bark? I like to let you know when my best friend is walking to our house, ready to play a rough game of tug-a-war. Because you say it gives you a headache and it is rude and makes the little Masters cry.Sheesh!Can't I do anything right?

You like it when I beg for food at the table, my tiny paws laid kindly and placidly on you thigh as you snitch a piece of fillet Mignon and pop into my mouth, my white teeth sinking into the savory flesh. But when you have your friends over, and my paws hit their laps, I'm a "Baa-ad" dog! Why? Because you say it is rude and explain that I am not a starving dog. Well, I am not starving, but you made me feel bad...

When I preform tricks in front of your friends, you pet me, praise me, and give me pieces of New York strip. But if I sit down and roll over and you are reading, you don't give me food? Why? Because you reward me when you feel like it. Huh! I guess I won't listen next training class then, now will I? So I don't and you get annoyed. Why? You are a perplexing person and make me confused.

But then you start to see it my way, and I in yours. I don't sniff crotches, bark, beg, or bite. You praise me, and I adore you. You like it when I bark when a stranger is at the door, I'm a "Goo-od Dog". Thank you. Teach me and I will learn, don't except me not to do these things. I am a DOG, not a person. I used to live out there in the big, wide world without rules, boundaries, or limitations. I could ram my cold nose into my friends' crotches if I liked, I could bark at the moon if I pleased. But now I am "Evolved" as you put it. If you be patient, I learn.

My manners are nasty and odd to you, but your manners confuse and make me flustered. Give me a break! I will learn, just don't expect results over night! Sheesh. If humans spent as much time learning about dogs as dogs did on humans, humans would have already learned how to talk to us. We study you. You study us. But there is one thing we do that you do differently: You give up, I don't. I will keep on studying you until I go and join the Rainbow Bridge.

Teach me manners, and I will learn. But first, I want to lay down some ground rules of my own.

1. If I want to play outside, and you are watching that television, I will bark until you play with me.

2. I have to go to the potty, and you don't take me out, your rug becomes an honorary hydrant.

3. If I don't get my food promptly at 5:00 I WILL eat out of the trash.

4. If you don't walk me, I will go berserk.

5. Give me water, or don't bother closing the toilet lid.

Okay, comply and I will comply, understand? Don't ignore me when I have to pee, or when I have to watch you much on sweets and candies whilst my belly burns with hunger, or when I am so thirsty I think I am about to die. I am not a burden, I am a dog, But I am not a MACHINE! Take care of me and I'll take care of you.

Police Labradors find Pirated Discs!

2008-06-28T20:07:00.003-04:00

There are drug-sniffing dogs, bomb-sniffing dogs, people-sniffing dogs, and now DVD-sniffing dogs.

Lucky and Flo are the world's first DVD-sniffing dogs.

An alliance of film industry groups that includes the Motion Picture Association of America and the Federation Against Copyright Theft has announced the world's first dogs specially trained to detect CDs and DVDs in bags and packages. The idea is that the dogs may be able to alert police to large stashes of pirated movies.

The MPAA says there are currently two DVD-sniffing dogs in the world. They are Labradors named Lucky and Flo working at Stansted Airport in the United Kingdom. The canines have been taught to recognize the unique smell of a compact disc.

"Someone had the wise idea that maybe dogs could sniff out DVDs," Kori Bernards, MPAA spokeswoman, told ABC News. "There are a lot of pirated products that go in and out of Heathrow Airport and airports around the world."

The dogs have had some success so far, according to the MPAA. But there is still more training that needs to be done. At this point, the dogs alert police to any CD or DVD they smell in packages and bags. Customs officials in the U.K. hope one day the dogs will only signal when there are large collections of discs, which would more likely include illegally copied movies.

For the time being, Lucky and Flo are working at a FedEx shipping center at Stansted Airport where they are sniffing packages that are shipped around the world. Trainers say the dogs have been notifying customs agents of packages with discs in them. The packages have been opened but so far no pirated movies have been found.

"We're encouraged by this. It's a new tool against piracy but we welcome it and hope others will adopt such practices," said Bernards.

Thanks to ABC news for the article

Firefly's Breed Pick of the Week

2008-06-28T18:00:00.004-04:00

THE COLLIE!

Weight:	48 - 70 pounds (21.77 - 31.75 kg)

Height:	22 - 24 inches (55.88 - 60.96 cm)

Trademark Traits

Narrow muzzle
Straight, harsh coat
Strong and responsive
Quick and graceful
Stubborn
Protective
Intelligent

Some Ideal Human Companions
:

Singles
Active, sporty types
Families
People with big yards
Rural Farmlands with Farmers
Ranches

What They’re Like to Live With
:
Friendly, loving and highly intelligent, Collies are gentle and loyal friends to the entire family—including other pets. However, in spite of their devotion to the home and family, they can be so wary of strangers that they may seem standoffish or aloof. At the dog park or during doggie playtime, you may find your Collie being more the observer than a participant.

Collies love play and attention, but they are remarkable low-maintenance—neither destructive nor demanding. Except for the occasional moodiness, they are usually steady and amiable. When it comes to guarding, Collies tend to think before they act. If they sense a threat they will protect the family and household, but Collies are more likely to play the role of friendly companion.

They love regular exercise, but don’t need the vigorous amount that a Labrador Retriever needs. Collies definitely appreciate regular “mellow time” around the house.

Things You Should Know

:
In spite of their famous TV cousin, Collies are not rescuers and shouldn’t be counted on to baby-sit children or run back to the house to alert you when someone’s hurt. Working Collies—a far cry from your typical Collie—are agile, busy and motivated to work. If you’re considering adopting one, be prepared to give them a big field and lots of jobs to do.

Collies need daily brushing and regular grooming to keep their coats from getting too frizzy. Also, they are sensitive to heat, and their noses are prone to sunburn. In the warm months, make sure they get plenty of shade and water.

A healthy Collie can live as long as 16 years. Common health issues include: eye problems -collie eye-, hip dysplasia and arthritis.

Collie History

:
Collies have existed in Scotland and northern England as long as there have been shepherds. For generations, Collies were used for herding cows and sheep, and their masters did not keep breed records. In the 19th century—thanks to the interest of Queen Victoria and others—Collies became popular pets, leading dog fanciers to take notice. The Collie Club of America began in 1886, and to this day the Collie ranks among the most popular breeds in the U.S.

The Look of the Collie
:
Familiar to many as TV’s Lassie, Collies have light, graceful frames with long, bushy coats. Their lean, wedge-shaped heads have flat tops and lean, chiseled faces. Their ears are often pointy and their noses point out. Slightly longer than tall, they have trim, muscular bodies, broad chests covered in mane and hanging tails. In addition to the more familiar rough coated variety, there is a smooth variety with a short, dense and thick coat. Typical colors are white, black & white, tri-color (black, white & tan) blue merle, red, red & tan, and sable. Overall, Collies carry themselves with grace, strength and harmonious balance.

If You Like This Dog, You Might Like…

Groomer Has It Finals!

2008-06-28T17:48:00.004-04:00

ARE YOU READY FOR THE FINALS OF "GROOMER HAS IT"? ON TONIGHT!

Are you ready for the pulse pounding conclusions of "Groomer Has It"??

Will Celebrity Pet Stylist Johnathon take the title, the cash, the mobile, and the dream? Or will Under Dog Artist rise to the top and take it all away?

FIND OUT TONIGHT!

MIGHT MISS THE EPISODE? PEEP BACK IN FOR AN UPDATE AFTER THE SHOW!

Delicious Cake!

2008-06-28T17:07:00.004-04:00

Here is a recipe that I had on my birthday! It was quiet delicious and dog-safe! Here is the recipe so you can enjoy it too!:

PEANUT BUTTER DELIGHT CAKE

1 cup white or whole wheat flour
1 tsp baking soda
1/4 cup peanut butter
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 cup shredded carrots
1 tsp vanilla
1/3 cup honey
1 egg

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C)

Mix together flour and baking soda. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Pour into a ring mold sprayed with a nonstick spray for 40 minutes.

Frost this cake with low fat cottage cheese/ vanilla icing/ peanut butter and decorate with carrot pieces. Store in refrigerator.

ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pawsitive Scoop: Rotating Proteins in kibbles

2008-06-28T16:15:00.004-04:00

WHAT IS ROTATIONAL DIET?

Rotational diets are diets that are designed to switch protein sources in pets. More than one protein can be beneficial to your pet. It gives a picky pooch variety, and an easily bored dog some excitement. Many people who rotate, do it every other meal. There are several ways to rotate your diet, bi-monthly, monthly, weekly, daily, every other day, or every other meal. It is up to you as owner to to decide what and when he gets his varied diet.

WHAT KIND OF PROTEIN SOURCES ARE AVAILABLE TO MY PET?

One of the most common protein sources is chicken. Chicken is a cheaper meat that more hardy beefs, fatty duck, or hard-to-obtain venison. But it isn't the only protein source available!

PROTEIN SOURCES:

Chicken
Turkey
Beef
Vension
Bison
Quail
Pheasant
Elk
(In certain places) Caribou

Many dogs have allergies to chicken and beef, so many dog owners like to pick rare and delicious meats for their dogs. Bison and Venison are commonly mixed together in kibble to create a allergy-free kibble. They are basically a better substitution for beef.

Turkey, Quail, and Pheasant are substitutions for chicken. Some dogs develope chicken allergies, so these are better fowl alternatives. Some dogs even have turkey allergies, in which Quail and pheasant are used instead of.

*Elk and Caribou are very hard to obtain. Alot of time they are substitutes in food for bison and venison allergies.

NOTE ON VARIETY:

Rotating the foods that your dogs eat is one of the best things that you can do to reduce the risk of developing allergies, giving variety, and giving your canine pal a happy, healthy life!

Contrary to popularly held beliefs, keeping your pet on one food for his or her lifetime can cause more harm than good. A pet can develope allergies to the single protein source, causing you to go on the hunt for a food that has no presence of the allergen causing meat. Some dogs even get bored staying on one single food their whole lives, resulting in eating disorders and a picky pooch.

PROS AND CONS TO THE SWITCH:

Just like me or you, your dog can get pretty bored eating the same old food everyday. Just think, eating that same old ham sandwich day in, day out. For days, weeks, months, and years! Another important reason to switch foods is that it helps prevent allergies from developing. Dogs that eat the same food for an extended period of time often develop allergies to one or more of the ingredients in their food. Varying their diet prevents the body from being overexposed to potential allergens. Pets also develop a stronger, tougher stomach and digestive system by being exposed to many different kinds of foods- a great way of eliminating stomach upsets. Finally, by varying the protein sources and brands that you feed, you are providing your pet with a wider spectrum of vital nutrients like trace minerals and vitamins that keep your pets their healthiest!

PROS:
Offers variety
Finds and prevents allergies
New flavors will excite your dog
And gives tougher stomachs!

CONS:
You have to buy different foods at different prices
Your dog may have allergies to the new protein source, limiting your options

THE FOODS:

There are four basic types of food that that you can offer your dog:

KIBBLE: Cost effective, convenient to feed, easy to store
Canned: Nutrient dense, palatable, high in moisture, helps overweight pets shed excess weight
Frozen Raw: Closest to the ancestral diet, cleans teeth, offers natural enzymes
Freeze-Dried: Lightweight and great for travel, works great as a treat, less mess than raw

How do I switch my dog to rotational?

Switching your pet’s food can be an easy and positive experience. Puppies and kittens are the easiest to transition, as their digestive systems are more adaptable. To start your puppy or kitten off right, introduce lots of different kinds, flavors and textures of food at an early age. Older pets, especially those who have been on the same food for an extended period of time, may need a little more time to adjust to their new food. Make a gradual switch to a new food by starting with 10-20% new food and increasing the amount over the course of four to seven days. Digestive aids such as our own Good Digestion or probiotics like acidophilus can help aid in the digestion of new foods as well. After a few months of switching gradually, your pet’s digestive system will toughen up and you will be able to decrease or even eliminate the transition period altogether.
While dogs often transition easily from dry food to canned or raw foods, it can be trickier for cats to switch if they are used to a dry only diet.
THAT'S A WRAP!

Dogs usually take to raw food very quickly- just be sure to phase it in gradually since it is so much more nutrient dense than cooked foods.
By introducing your pet to the various kinds of foods available, you are helping to make sure that he or she is getting the most nutritious and well-rounded diet possible for a longer, happier life!

Remember to choose quality and premium foods for your rotational diet! Here are some recommended brands and their sites:

WELLNESS PET FOOD: http://www.wellnesspetfood.com
SOLID GOLD: http://www.solidgoldhealth.com
Taste of the Wild Foods: http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com

You are What You Eat Part 1: Introduction

2008-06-28T01:38:00.006-04:00

YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT: PET FOOD INTRO. TO INGREDIENTS

Have you ever seen those pet food commercials with a happy dog's tail wagging or a content kitty is purring lustily for a bowl of Mr.Commercial Kibble? Have you seen those yummy looking falling steaks, veggies, and grains? Also, have you ever wondered if that is what REALLY went into pet food? Those WHOLE veggies look yummy, but the real facts behind them are disgusting and disturbing. The giant commercial lines are filling our pets' food with harmful chemicals, rauchingly disturbing animal by-products and not-so-good-for-them-grains.

The truth lies within the ingredients. When you see those commercials, you see falling steak. But what your pal is actually getting is beef by-product, which is almost everything except the actual meats. Fur, bones, stomachs, stomach contents, and digest.

Here is definitions of all ingredients in dog food. But please note: Not all ingredients are on here. Vitamins, binders, etc. are coming very soon.

Alfalfa Meal: the aerial portion of the alfalfa plant, reasonably free from other crop plants, weeds and mold, which has been sun cured and finely ground.
Animal Digest: material which results from chemical and/or enzymatic hydrolysis of clean and undecomposed animal tissue. The animal tissues used shall be exclusive of hair, horns, teeth, hooves and feathers, except in such trace amounts as might occur unavoidably in good factory practice and shall be suitable for animal feed.
Animal Fat: is obtained from the tissues of mammals and/or poultry in the commercial processes of rendering or extracting. It consists predominantly of glyceride esters of fatty acids and contains no additions of free fatty acids. If an antioxidant is used, the common name or names must be indicated, followed by the words "used as a preservative".
Barley: consists of at lea st 80 percent sound barley and must not contain more than 3 percent heat-damaged kernels, 6 percent foreign material, 20 percent other grains or 10 percent wild oats.
Barley Flour: soft, finely ground and bolted barley meal obtained from the milling of barley. It consists essentially of the starch and gluten of the endosperm.
Beef (meat): is the clean flesh derived from slaughtered cattle, and is limited to that part of the striate muscle which is skeletal or that which is found in the tongue, in the diaphragm, in the heart, or in the esophagus; with or without the accompanying and overlying fat and the portions of the skin, sinew, nerve and blood vessels which normally accompany the flesh.
Beet Pulp ("beet pulp, dried molasses" and "beet pulp, dried, plain"): the dried residue from sugar beets.
Brewer's Rice: the dried extracted residue of rice resulting from the manufacture of wort (liquid portion of malted grain) or beer and may contain pulverized dried spent hops in an amount not to exceed 3 percent.
Brown Rice: unpolished rice after the kernels have been removed. Not a complete AAFCO definition.
Carrots: presumably carrots. No AAFCO definition.
Chicken: the clean combination of flesh and skin with or without accompanying bone, derived from the parts or whole carcasses of chicken or a combination thereof, exclusive of feathers, heads, feet and entrails.
Chicken By-Product Meal: consists of the ground, rendered, clean parts of the carcass of slaughtered chicken, such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs and intestines, exclusive of feathers, except in such amounts as might occur unavoidable in good processing practice.
Chicken Liver Meal: chicken livers which have been ground or otherwise reduced in particle size.
Chicken Meal: chicken which has been ground or otherwise reduced in particle size.
Corn: unspecified corn product. Not a complete AAFCO definition.
Corn Bran: the outer coating of the corn kernel, with little or none of the starchy part of the germ.
Corn Germ Meal (Dry Milled): ground corn germ which consists of corn germ with other parts of the corn kernel from which part of the oil has been removed and is the product obtained in the dry milling process of manufacture of corn meal, corn grits, hominy feed and other corn products.
Corn Gluten: that part of the commercial shelled corn that remains after the extraction of the larger portion of the starch, gluten, and term by the processes employed in the wet milling manufacture of corn starch or syrup.
Corn Gluten Meal: the dried residue from corn after the removal of the larger part of the starch and germ, and the separation of the bran by the process employed in the wet milling manufacture of corn starch or syrup, or by enzymatic treatment of the endosperm.
MORE DEFINITIONS BELOW...
Corn Syrup: concentrated juice derived from corn.
Cracked Pearl Barley: cracked pearl barley resulting from the manufacture of pearl barley from clean barley.
Dehydrated Eggs: dried whole poultry eggs freed of moisture by thermal means.
Digest of Beef: material from beef which results from chemical and/or enzymatic hydrolysis of clean and undecomposed tissue. The tissues used shall be exclusive of hair, horns, teeth and hooves, except in such trace amounts as might occur unavoidably in good factory practice.
Digest of Beef By-Products: material from beef which results from chemical and/or enzymatic hydrolysis of clean and undecomposed tissue from non-rendered clean parts, other than meat, from cattle which includes, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defated low-temperature fatty tissue, and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents. It does not include hair, horns, teeth and hooves.
Digest of Poultry By-Products : material which results from chemical and/or enzymatic hydrolysis of clean and undecomposed tissue from non-rendered clean parts of carcasses of slaughtered poultry such as heads, feet, viscera, free from fecal content and foreign matter except in such trace amounts as might occur unavoidably in good factory practice.
Dried Animal Digest : dried material resulting from chemical and/or enzymatic hydrolysis of clean and undecomposed animal tissue. The animal tissue used shall be exclusive of hair, horns, teeth, hooves and feathers, except in such trace amounts as might occur unavoidably in good factory practice and shall be suitable for animal feed. If it bears a name descriptive of its kind or flavor(s), it must correspond thereto.
Dried Kelp : dried seaweed of the families Laminaricae and Fu-caeae. If the product is prepared by artificial drying, it may be called "dehydrated kelp".
Dried Milk Protein: obtained by drying the coagulated protein residue resulting from the controlled co-precipitation of casein, lactalbumin and minor mild proteins from defatted milk.
Dried Whey: the product obtained by removing water from the whey. It contains not less than 11 percent protein nor less than 61 percent lactose.
Feeding Oatmeal: obtained in the manufacture of rolled oat groats or rolled oats and consists of broken oat groats, oat groat chips, and floury portions of the oat groats, with only such quantity of finely ground oat hulls as is unavoidable in the usual process of commercial milling. It must not contain more than 4 percent crude fiber.
Fish Meal: the clean, dried, ground tissue of undecomposed whole fish or fish cuttings, either or both, with or without the extraction of part of the oil.
Ground Corn (ground ear corn) : the entire ear of corn ground, without husks, with no greater portion of cob than occurs in the ear corn in its natural state.
Ground Dehulled Oats : presumably ground cleaned oats with hulls removed (ground oat groats). Not an AAFCO definition.
Ground Wheat : presumably a coarser grind of wheat flour. Not an AAFCO definition.
Ground Whole Brown Rice (Ground Brown Rice) : the entire product obtained by grinding the rice kernels after the hulls have been removed.
Ground Whole Wheat: ground whole kernel, presumably equivalent to AAFCO's Wheat Mill Run, Wheat Middlings, Wheat Shorts or Wheat Red Dog, whose principal differences are in the percentage of crude fiber.
Ground Yellow Corn: same as ground corn, except that the corn used is yellow in color.
Kibbled Corn: obtained by cooking cracked corn under steam pressure and extruding from an expeller or other mechanical pressure device.
Lamb Bone Meal: (steamed) dried and ground product sterilized by cooking undecomposed bones with steam under pressure. Grease, gelatin and meat fiber may or may not be removed.
Lamb Digest: material resulting from chemical and/or enzymatic hydrolysis of clean and undecomposed lamb. The tissue used shall be exclusive of hair, horns, teeth and hooves, except in such trace amounts as might occur unavoidably in good factory practice and shall be suitable for animal feed.
Lamb Fat: obtained from the tissues of lamb in the commercial processes of rendering or extracting. It consists predominantly of glyceride esters of fatty acids and contains no additions of free fatty acids. If an antioxidant is used, the common name or names must be indicated, followed by the words "used as a preservative".
Lamb Meal: the rendered product from lamb tissues, exclusive of blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processing practices.
Linseed Meal: the product obtained by grinding the cake or chips which remain after removal of most of the oil from flaxseed by a mechanical extraction process. It must contain no more than 10 percent fiber. The words "mechanical extracted" are not required when listing as an ingredient in the manufactured food.
Liver: the hepatic gland (of whatever species is listed).
Meat and Bone Meal: the rendered product from mammal tissues, including bone, exclusive of blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents, except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processing practices.
In his article, "Animal Disposal: Fact and Fiction, David C. Cooke writes, "Can you imagine trying to remove the hair and stomach contents from 600,000 tons of dogs and cats prior to cooking them?"
Meat By-Products: the non rendered, clean parts, other than meat, derived from slaughtered mammals. It includes, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low-temperature fatty tissue and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents. It does not include hair, horns, teeth and hooves.
Meat Meal: the rendered product from mammal tissues, exclusive of blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processing practices.
Peas: peas.
Potatoes: potatoes.
Poultry By-Product Meal: consists of the ground, rendered, clean parts of the carcass of slaughtered poultry, such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs, intestines, exclusive of feathers, except in such amounts as might occur unavoidably in good processing practices.
Poultry Digest: material which results from chemical and/or enzymatic hydrolysis of clean and undecomposed poultry tissue.
Poultry Fat (feed grade): primarily obtained from the tissue of poultry in the commercial process of rendering or extracting. It shall contain only the fatty matter natural to the product produced under good manufacturing practices and shall contain no added free fatty acids or other materials obtained from fat. It must contain not less than 90 percent total fatty acids and not more than 3 percent of unsaponifiables and impurities. It shall have a minimum titer of 33 degrees Celsius. If an antioxidant is used, the common name or names must be indicated, followed by the word "preservative(s)".
Powdered Cellulose: purified, mechanically disintegrated cellulose prepared by processing alpha cellulose obtained as a pulp from fibrous plant materials.
Rice Bran: the pericarp or bran layer and germ of the rice, with only such quantity of hull fragments, chipped, broken, or brewer's rice, and calcium carbonate as is unavoidable in the regular milling of edible rice.
Soybean Hulls: consist primarily of the outer covering of the soybean.
Soybean Meal (Dehulled, solvent Extracted): obtained by grinding the flakes remaining after removal of most of the oil from dehulled soybeans by a solvent extraction process.
Soybean Meal (Mechanical Extracted): obtained by grinding the cake or chips which remain after removal of most of the oil from the soybeans by a mechanical extraction process.
Soybean Mill Run: composed of soybean hulls and such bean meats that adhere to the hulls and such bean meats that adhere to the hulls which results from normal milling operations in the production of dehulled soybean meal.
Tallow: animal fats with titer above 40 degrees Celsius.
Turkey: unspecified turkey. Not a complete AAFCO description.
Turkey Meal: the ground clean combination of flesh and skin with or without accompanying bone, derived from the parts or whole carcasses of turkey or a combination thereof, exclusive of feathers, heads, feet and entrails.
Wheat Bran: the coarse outer covering of the wheat kernel as separated from cleaned and scoured wheat in the usual process of commercial milling.
Wheat Flour: wheat flour together with fine particles of wheat bran, wheat germ and the offal from the "tail of the mill". This product must be obtained in the usual process of commercial milling and must not contain more than 1.5 percent crude fiber. "Tail of the mill" is the sweepings of leftovers after a week or so of processing.
Wheat Germ Meal: consists chiefly of wheat germ together with some bran and middlings or short. It must contain not less than 25 percent crude protein and 7 percent crude fat.
Wheat Mill Run: coarse wheat bran, fine particles of wheat bran, wheat shorts, wheat germ, wheat flour and the offal from the "tail of the mill". This product must be obtained in the usual process of commercial milling and must contain not more than 9.5 percent crude fiber.
Whey: the product obtained as a fluid by separating the coagulum from milk, cream or skimmed milk and from which a portion of the milk fat may have been removed.

So basically, it isn't all that fun huh? Still a little confused? Well let's compare a cheap brand, to a premium brand. I am going to take a Purina product and a Wellness product and compare ingredients... All bold ingredients are a potential problem, un-need, or flat out gross to humans,

BENEFUL ORIGINAL:
Ground yellow corn, chicken by-product meal, corn gluten meal, whole wheat flour, animal fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols (form of Vitamin E), rice flour, beef, soy flour, sugar, sorbitol, tricalcium phosphate, water, salt, phosphoric acid, animal digest, potassium chloride, dicalcium phosphate, sorbic acid (a preservative), L-Lysine monohydrochloride, dried peas, dried carrots, calcium carbonate, calcium propionate (a preservative), choline chloride, added color (Yellow 5, Red 40, Yellow 6, Blue 2), DL-Methionine, Vitamin E supplement, zinc sulfate, ferrous sulfate, Vitamin A supplement, manganese sulfate, niacin, Vitamin B-12 supplement, calcium pantothenate, riboflavin supplement, copper sulfate, biotin, garlic oil, thiamine hydrochloride, pyridoxine hydrochloride, thiamine mononitrate, folic acid, Vitamin D-3 supplement, menadione sodium bisulfite complex (source of Vitamin K activity), calcium iodate, sodium selenite.

Look those up in my definitions section and keep a trash can near by in case you need to vomit profusely.

Now look at Wellness Super5Mix Chicken formula:
Deboned Chicken, Chicken Meal, Oatmeal, Ground Barley, Ground Brown Rice, Tomato Pomace, Rye Flour, Canola Oil (preserved with mixed tocopherols, a natural source of Vitamin E), Tomatoes, Rice Bran, Deboned Whitefish, Natural Chicken Flavor, Carrots, Spinach, Sweet Potatoes, Apples, Blueberries, Ground Flaxseed, Ground Millet, Dicalcium Phosphate, Calcium Carbonate, Potassium Chloride, Minerals [Zinc Sulfate, Zinc Proteinate, Iron Proteinate, Ferrous Sulfate, Copper Proteinate, Copper Sulfate, Manganese Proteinate, Manganese Sulfate, Sodium Selenite], Vitamins [Beta-Carotene, Vitamin E Supplement, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Vitamin A Supplement, Niacin, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin, Vitamin D-3 Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Folic Acid, Biotin, Vitamin B-12 Supplement], Choline Chloride, Taurine, Mixed Tocopherols (a natural preservative), Glucosamine Hydrochloride, Chondroitin Sulfate, Chicory Root Extract, Garlic, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Green Tea Extract, Dried Lactobacillus plantarum, Enterococcus faecium, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus fermentation products.

Would you look at that! No dangerous chemicals or grotesque sounding ingredients...

PETS ARE IMPORTANT FOOD! What you put into their bodies can either lead to a life time of quality health or a life time of poor nutritional deficiencies.

Your choice.....

Tennessee Puppy Mill Bust

2008-06-28T01:28:00.002-04:00

FROM THE HSUS SITE:

Last week, our Emergency Services team was in Iowa responding to floods. There's no rest for the weary, though. Over the weekend, they deployed to Tennessee, as part of a carefully planned response to a human-caused disaster of very significant proportions. Joined by dozens of staff from several HSUS departments and more than 50 individuals from other organizations, our rescue team is carrying out the largest puppy mill bust in Tennessee history, removing nearly 700 dogs who had been living in intensive confinement and suffering in cramped and squalid cages.

Our Tennessee State Director Leighann McCollum set this operation into motion and has been working with local authorities and District Attorney Kim Helper for six weeks to build a case against this reckless puppy mill operator.

Scotlund Haisley, our senior director of Emergency Services and the Indiana Jones of animal protection, is leading the rescue efforts in Lyles, Tenn. and provides this report.

For two days we assembled hundreds of crates and organized tons of supplies in an effort to prepare for the influx of rescued dogs. But we were unable to prepare ourselves for the sight that awaited us at the puppy mill. The smell of urine and feces reached us long before we could even see the animals.

Nearly 450 dogs were living in row after row of tiny hutches stacked in an overgrown field. These animals had no protection from the elements and many of the dogs’ legs were entangled in the grates of their wire cages. Approximately 250 female dogs and their puppies were also being kept in deplorable conditions inside a trailer on the property. None of these animals were being properly fed and 90 percent of them had no water.

As we came upon the dogs they let out a volley of excited but nervous barking that carried across the property. But as we approached this canine factory farm the dogs pressed themselves up against the bars with their tails wagging furiously. Despite years of neglect and abuse, these animals still yearn for human affection.

It is heartbreaking to see such innocent life mistreated in this way. Many of the dogs were lying in piles of their own feces with untreated wounds ranging from broken bones to deep lacerations. One Yorkie was so matted that her tangled coat was twice the size of her frame and she couldn’t move her legs because they were so constricted by fur.

It will be no easy feat rescuing hundreds of mistreated animals and giving them the care they need. We will have to work around the clock for several days to remove them from the property. But I know that we will not rest until all of these dogs have been safely transported to our emergency shelter for veterinary care and evaluation. While I am dirty and dog-tired, I couldn't be happier to be among these animals and helping to deliver them to a new and hopeful chapter in their lives.

THANKS YOU HSUS FOR THIS ARTICLE

www.hsus.com

First Time Puppy Buyers BEWARE!

2008-06-28T00:57:00.004-04:00

Not a happy place.

Misery and disgrace.
Causing pain,
all in vain,
stop these mills,
there are no thrills,
only chills........

Puppymills - A National Disgrace

Hundreds of thousands of puppies are raised each year in commercial kennels.

Puppy mills are noted by their inhumane conditions and the constant breeding of unhealthy and genetically defective dogs solely for profit.

Very often the dogs in puppymills are covered with matted, filthy hair, their teeth are rotting and their eyes have ulcers. They are covered in feces, urine, and sometimes their pads burn off from so much filth eating away at their flesh. They have nails that curve into the pads, and are almost always cramped in cages too small for any dog.

The dogs are kept in small wire cages for their entire lives. They are almost never allowed out. They never touch solid ground or grass to run and play.

Many of the dogs are injured in fights that occur in the cramped cages from which there is no escape.

Many dogs lose feet and legs when they are caught in the wire floors of the cages and are cut off as the dog struggles to free themselves. Sometimes in their desperation, they will chew their own legs off to free themselves. Many dogs not only loose teeth from poor health and diet, but from trying to escape they hell they were born and brought into.

Very often there is no heat or air-conditioning in a puppymill. The dogs freeze in the winter and die of heat stroke in the summer. Puppies "cook" on the wires of the cages in the summer. They develope hot spots also called lick grandula. They are literally fried in the hot months.

Female dogs are usually bred the first time they come into heat and are bred every heat cycle. They are bred until their poor worn out bodies can't reproduce any longer and then they are killed. Often they are killed by being bashed in the head with a rock or shot. Sometimes they are sold to laboratories or dumped. This is often by the time they reach five years old. Many breeding females have enlarged teats that do not decrease in size when they are through nursing puppies. Females develope the risk of breast cancer and mammary tumors, and also ovarian, uterine, and cervical cancers.

Puppy mills maximize their profits by not spending adequate money on proper food, housing or veterinary care. They feed dogs poor food in bulk and are often only fed a small amount a day. Dogs have to fight for food and end up injuring themselves and each other. Water is scarce in their bowls, and they are often only filled up at feeding time and never refilled throughout the day.

The food that is fed in puppy mills is often purchased from dog food companies by the truck load. It is sometimes made of the sweepings from the floor. It is so devoid of nutritional value that the dogs' teeth rot at early ages.

Dogs in puppymills are debarked often by ramming a steel rod down their throats to reputure their vocal cords.

Puppies are often taken from their mother when they are 5 to 8 weeks old and sold to brokers who pack them in crates for resale to pet stores all over the country.
The puppies are shipped by truck or plane and often without adequate food, water, ventilation or shelter.
Innocent families buy the puppies only to find that the puppy is very ill or has genetic or emotional problems. Often the puppies die of disease. Many others have medical problems that cost thousands of dollars. And many have emotional problems because they have not been properly socialized in the mills. Don't bring this misery into your home.

There are over 4000 federally licensed breeding kennels.
Approximately 3,500 pet stores in the United States sell puppies. They sell approximately 500,000 thousand puppies a year. It is estimated that the puppy industry in Missouri is valued at 40 million dollars a year. The puppy industry in one county in Pennsylvania - Lancaster - is valued at 4 million dollars a year.
There are seven states that are known as puppy mill states because they have the majority of the puppy mills in the country. They are: Missouri, Nebraska, Kansas, Iowa, Arkansas, Oklahoma and Pennsylvania. All though ALL states can have puppy mills. Never think you can't run into one. It just might happen...
There is federal law, the Animal Welfare Act, and many states have laws that purport to regulate puppymills, but the fact is that those laws are rarely enforced.
. Pet stores often tell customers that their puppies come from local breeders or quality breeders. Don't believe them, ask to see the paperwork and find out where the puppies really come from.

If the people of the United States refused to buy a puppy in a pet store, the misery of puppy mills would end. Please tell everyone you know about the puppymill and petstore connection.
Buying a puppy in a pet store has significant risks for the purchaser and their family.
A state funded survey in California found that nearly half of the puppies sold in pet stores were sick or incubating diseases. This doesn't count the ones suffering from genetic diseases. Imagine bringing a puppy home from a pet store only to have it die from parvo and cost thousands of dollars in vet expenses because of genetic problems like hip dysplasia.

Some dogs are so psychologically scarred from the mind numbing boredom of being imprisoned in a small cage for year and years that they have developed repetitive habits like going round and round in circles for hours and hours or barking at the wall for hours. Also, corophagia is another gross and disturbing behavior.

Puppy Mills are 'Sin'Mills.

STOP PUPPY MILLS!

So think next time before buying a puppy. They are over 100,000 unwanted dogs put to death each year because no one wanted them. Make a difference. Save a life. Fight for the rights of your animals. Do not breed or buy while shelter animals die!

Who and What is Firefly?

2008-06-28T00:17:00.000-04:00

THE WHO AND WHAT:

Firefly is a two-year old Shetland Sheepdog. Yes, she is a dog! She is a sable and white purebred whom I bought 1 year 3 weeks ago. She is my best friend and pal.

Firefly's Blog Spot is basically a blog to help out dog owners with topics on dog health, dog nutrition, grooming, and training! Firefly will be covering the years hottest and 'nottest' topics, vet care, and pet foods.

Firefly's goal is to make sure you do what is best for your pet, and to keep him/her happy and healthy!